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need some help got shaw car setup is lf7006.4 rf6004.7 lr1757.2 rr2004.4 per rear 56.4 ls 55.5 cross 49.6 car is really slow getting up on bars @wants to get up on rr bars bad as soon as u pick up gas comes up off rr springs down straights thanks for any help
sorry ls is 54.7 not 55.5
What are the bar angles? Sounds like you have too much RU bar angle and not enough LU bar angle. Do you have limiting chains on both sides?
lr bar angle 46 at full drop rr bar angle 19 at ride height chain on lr none on rr
Chain it down on rr. Start with about 1/2" of ride height being tight.
Tighten to 0 as track slicks off.
Should tighten considerably middle-off
Chain the RR like what was said above.
i have done that before ok can i just weld a tab on top of birdcage theirs not really a good place on that car to put a roller clamp like on lr
I gather this is not an IMCA car. I wouldn't mount it to the birdcage. It can create binding by not allowing the cage to move freely
no its outlaw we run any tire soft med spiolers wat ever we want i think when the cage is rotation its rolled over off the chain aint it
When it's rolled over, yes, depending on how much slack there is. If the chain isn't centered when that side is lifting, it can pull against or into the spring. The bars are trying to push the chassis up so the chain will try to pull against it. Just pay close attention to where the mount would be under acceleration
if i put it on top of cage at ride height would that be ok when it gets on chain its not going to rotate on more is it thanks 4 the info
The farther away from the axle tube, the more the age rotates. The degrees will be the same, but the distance is greater. If you are going to mount it to the birdcage, try to get it as close to the tube as you can
if i weld a tab right on top of cage with car setting at ride height will that work ok when it gets on chain the cage will not rotate anymore anyway will it
I would lower the RRU one hole. What length bars C-T-C are you running?
Also Check the RR shock. It may be dead/bad. We had a pro shock that gave up one night on a fast hammer down track and it started climbing the rr and hopping as well.
Also that chain deal on the RR is ok on smooth tracks if it gets rough hold onto your fillings.
have drop bars 2 holes still dose the same just gets looser getting in top bars 16.1/8 bottoms 16.1/8 had shocks dyno 2 weeks ago @ again today
sorry bottoms r 14.1/8
If you are still at 19 on the upper you could stand to lose a coupe more degrees. What is the rr lower at?
And what is the LRU upper/lower at? Just because its 46 at drop doesn't mean you have the correct starting angle. you may just have more drop than others to get to that but you are saying the car doesn't hike so that number is some what of a moot point.
that 19 is when it is in the hole that shaw says to put it i never check it when i drop it was at track 3 or4 diff times just trying to see wat it do rr bottom level lr up bar 22 lr bottom 6 i have try so much running out of things to try
I run a standard bolt together clamp ring, with 2 ears on it for a double shear for the chain to bolt up.
clamp right to the tube no bearing type like the lr it dnt bind nothing up
justadddirt with that clamp to the tube it dnt try to bind any thing when its up on jbar pulling rearend to left or trying to rap up i had some isuse before doing that but if u say it will work sure it will u allways bad fast ALL THE TIME
My rear end does not move a lot on pinion rotation, so I have the clamp connected to rearend with the chain mount rotated slightly forward. This location was determined by the amount of pinion rotation I have, and setting the mount straight up to the chassis mount.
I use an Allstar bolt together double sheer mount, and I have a vertical slug welded on chassis, and a 1/2 bolt welded to chassis end of the chain that goes up threw slug so I can set the amount of preload on RR chain. Also I have the chain set at the same angle as the RR coilover.
never had any binding issues to speak of.
thanks justadddirt i no wat i got to do i ran lightning 4 about 15 years my driver had to go out of town 4 a couple years i sold out i bought this car only had 5 or 6 races on it got a deal i got to call don this fall got to have a car thats wat i got to do thanks for the help JAD
no problem anytime
just add dirt the birdcage on rr of that car is 10 inches wide having trouble getting that chain on the right angle got any ideas on that JAD SURE APPDECIACE THE HELP MAN
can you use the inside clamp ring of birdcage and weld the chain mount to? Or, take off the current ring and put the bolt together ring on and use it for the inner holding ring?Quote:
Originally Posted by racingjf9
what about moving birdcage out a bit on axle tube? make your RR bars toe in toward chassis mount at ride height. When cars is up on bars and rear end pulls to left then the bars will be straight.
I'm having the same problem so are you saying chain it so that the chain is 1/2" from tight at ride height? And I was also thinking of chaining it at the back of the birdcage where a rear shock would mount. Any opinions and help would be great. ThanksQuote:
Originally Posted by JustAddDirt
He's referring to 1/2" of slack. Meaning, if you jack up the RR, the body/frame only raises 1/2" before the tire does.
Mounting the chain to the back of the birdcage, where the shock mounts, removes the slack when the birdcage indexes. I think it's a bad idea. Too uncontrollable and immeasurable.
Agree, do not use a chain on back of birdcage. Use the axle tube to chassis to mount.Quote:
Originally Posted by Confused?
listen to him thanks JUST ADD DIRT