In general what will moving the shock from in front of the lr birdcage to behind on a coilover do for car handling?
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In general what will moving the shock from in front of the lr birdcage to behind on a coilover do for car handling?
The shock becomes much softer.Quote:
Originally Posted by 8184
if it makes the shock much softer, how would that help on dry slick? Grt recommends doing this when the track slicks off and i just cant see how that would help. I've always been taught that you want high compression and low rebound on the left rear, but that's with the shock in front of the birdcage.
I think they are trying to get at is the shock on the rear allows the LR to hike a little easier because the shock is much less effective there.
I wouldn't call the shock softer per say, but the shaft travel is reduced to very little so I'd call it much less effective but
MSR is on target.
Less Lr shock means more drive. Means it's a pain in the asssss In traffic too
so i take it by the pain in the asss comment that this setup wold not be ideal for stop and go tracks but would work good if you can carry some speed into the corners.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirt_Buster
Stop and go I like a 3-5 or 3-6 rf or a digressive shock with good bleed for he low speed . That's if diamonding corner and dry! Lr 7-3 150-170psi if up front and 8-2 200 in traffic for dry. 9-2 tacky and 250-300 psi
I know it tightened our mod up a ton very hard to drive.
Yep its junk I wouldn't even try it.
That's what I would tell my competitors.Quote:
Originally Posted by powerslide
On a really dry slick track it gives you way more drive from the center off. I found that you have to loosen car up a little and get used to backing out of the throttle very slowly and only part way so the car doesn't slam down and upset your corner entry. JMO
I'm with MBR on this one. Tell all your competitors it's a junk deal.
Oh yea, I forgot to add that. LOL . JMO
Lol its not anything magical just another tool in the toolboxQuote:
Originally Posted by MasterSbilt_Racer
Skip ARP would say otherwise since 1997.Quote:
Originally Posted by powerslide
It doesn't matter what skip ARP says...it's not magical. It's an adjustment that if used correctly can be fast or it can take a top 5 car that turned through the center and make it a 10th place car that pushes like a dump truck
I forgot, mods obey different laws of physics from late models. My bad...
Mods do obey laws of physics differently than late models but still the same laws. All I'm saying is one adjustment could make a car fast while that same adjustment could take a different car and make it out to lunch. No magic just adds traction which at times is the wrong thing to do
I am not talking about adjustments, but the best suspension package for the car. The tires are much different, but that can be compensated for. Eventually mods will get there.
Power slide said it's not anything magical, just a tool in the toolbox. You replied with "skip ARP would say otherwise since 1997. In otherwords, you implied that it's more than just an aadjustment as nothing was said about a package. I'm not going to put words in your mouth or bicker back and forth. Just a shame for someone to put forth the effort to learn and maintenance their car just to be mislead when asking a simple question.
With a brake floater, if used correctly, it will tighten the car up from the center off if you can keep the tires under it on entry. It will slam down without a floater and will be very difficult to enter the corner consistently. IMO This works best on stop and go tracks where momentum isn't needed
Your statement about what it does is the reason you don't see it on as many mods. You assume it has to be that way...Quote:
Originally Posted by ModRacer12H
I should have specified, this is IMCA rules where no lift arms are allowed...just a pull bar.
That's one of those silly rules that makes little sense and does change things a bit.Quote:
Originally Posted by ModRacer12H
One of the many silly rules that doesn't make sense.