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When a builder gives you a baseline wheel lid number does that mean wheel load at dynamic ride height or static ride height?
If dynamic, how do I figure out my dynamic ride height.
Trying to find the right springs to get me close to this.
675lf
600rf
350rr
650lr
Older smackdown. No S7
Thanks in advance
Those numbers are static ride height. And not really "wheel load". It's the spring load as measured in a smasher.Quote:
Originally Posted by rosco
You can get there with any springs.
If you want something simple, try the following.
LF- 500#. Rf- 325# and two purple roller skate wheel bumps. Use a flat divider washer between them. 2400# @ 3.75" travel from ride height pin to pin.
LR - 150#. RR- 250#
How do I get there with the springs I have without effecting ride height?
Thanks
You set your car at ride height. Measure pin to pin. Now put your coilovers in the smasher and adjust your coilovers nuts to match these loads at the pin to pin measurements you took from the car.Quote:
Originally Posted by rosco
Awesome thanks.
One more question. I have the older Smackdown without the raised rail. I might raise it next year but for now I’d like to go as soft on springs as the other guys.
What do you think about stacking bump stops to keep the frame and struts from bottoming?
Right now my rf has a white speedythane 58mm tall bump stop. Not sure how much height I would need to keep it from bottoming.
Thanks again
You can't go as soft with that small of a travel window. You might get by with 275#. You won't be able to travel more than 3.75" on the shock without beating your frame in the track. So, your load there better be 2400# or more, as I instructed.
The lack of ground clearance limits what you can do. The crossmember is as big a problem as the frame rail. The front crossmember, for the lower a arm struts, will get you too because the bolts will dig in.
Thanks again!
Rosco... subscribe to RaceKnowHow.com. Tader Masters has several good videos there relating to springs, ride heights etc. featuring his cars. Lots of info from others as well. It really helps to “see” guys explaining what you need to do. Best $9.00 per month a new guy can spend.
I’d like to see guys like MBR do some videos too since he runs an older MB...
Thanks Krooser
I actually have Race Know How but I’m still trying to fill in the blanks in between. I’m a true rookie and just trying to get a good handle on what makes these things tick and what the go-to adjustments are.
what the soft rt front set up does to the left rear is as important as any thing , you will never really benefit from a soft right front on your chassis , you can go as soft as you want on the rt front and stack bumps up to keep it off the ground , but your not accomplishing any thing , i would take MBR,s advice on on a simple get started set up....jmo....also i have saw some use a raised rt spindle to gain some travel , but i personally never liked that crutch.....
When you say stacked springs. What height springs are usually stacked together? I'm not going to start playing around with them yet but I would like to have some in the trailer. Just another tool in the tool box as they say.Quote:
Originally Posted by fastford
Thanks for your input. I will definitely keep it simple for now. Cant thank you guys enough, I'm a green horn.
i was talking about stacking up bump stops to keep from bottoming out , a 2 stage stacked spring is basically the same soft set up but instead of a bump to stop rapid travel , it uses a lock out type nut so after the desired soft rate travel , you hit the heavy spring which stops the rapid travel , this is what we use on a rough track but if the track is smooth , then we use a soft single spring ( been down as low as a 150 # but usually between a 200 and 250 ) and bump stop , this is a simple over view , shock valving , different types of bump stops and a whole bunch of other variables come into play , like left rear bar placement , start with what you have and if this is your thing , then find you a newer chassis and a good shock man , good luck.....
Cool thanks man
Quick question. I’m trying to find a 16” 125lb spring to use on the left rear of my Mastersbilt.
The only springs I see available are Hypero and Swift barrel springs. Any preferences anyone?
Hyperco are good springs for the money. I have only limited experience with swift but they are quality springs that come at a quality cost imo
I thought PAC Springs had just about anything you could imagine as well, even off-road stuff. I ran one on a MasterSbilt and didn't have any issues. But now I see they don't list anything. Maybe give them a call and see if they have left over stuff for cheap...?
Here's their website: https://www.racingsprings.com/index....nside-dia.html
A 14" will work just fine in that rate. Or better yet, a couple of 250# with a nylon between.
Try this: https://www.racingsprings.com/media/...er-Catalog.pdfQuote:
Originally Posted by TheJet-09
Bud watson on Facebook had alot of leftover pac stock he bought when they shut down the suspension side.
yep , i like the stacked 250,s the best because they will not deflect like a single 125 , also we ran good on a 80 lb swift single barrel or some call it a tornado spring .Quote:
Originally Posted by MasterSbilt_Racer
If I used a couple 250’s what height do they need to be?
Bottom has to be tall enough to not catch on the body of your shock. 10" probably ok. Other one, 6".
In what track condition or track type would you run an 80lb spring? I know there are allot more variables but if you can give me a "for instance" it would help me tremendously. Keep in mind I have an older mastersbilt.Quote:
Originally Posted by fastford
Also a guy told me to run a 16". Is 14" more common? A 16" of the same spring rate should theoretically make my static ride height taller in the LR right?
Thanks yet again lol
You have to move your coilover nut for the taller spring.Quote:
Originally Posted by rosco
No it would not effect your ride height if set at the same load# or in traditional terms if you rescale and have the same amount of lr wedge or bite. It's the same rate just a tale spring. If you just swap it out without touching anything of course it will make it tallerQuote:
Originally Posted by rosco
we run it mostly on a smooth slick track , i personally like the 16 inch swift spring , some refer to it as a tornado because of its shape , at 80# , it will not coil bind like others , but this set up is affected by the design of your chassis , if you cant get the travel on your right front , it probably will not help much , when we were running the older designed chassis like yours , we had the best luck on two 250,s stacked , if i were you , this is where i would start and begin to learn......Quote:
Originally Posted by rosco
So a 10” 250 and a 6” 250?
Thanks all