Thoughts on Position of LRF Shock

2017 Lazer, the LRB shock is centered 7" inboard of the LR rotor (1.25" rotor) on the cage, but the LRF shock is 1 3/4" further inboard than that (a total of 8 3/4"). It's obviously by design, but I was wondering what opinions or experience there was out there regarding running the LRF in-line with the LRB, or pros/cons either way.

My concern is the further inboard it gets, does it lose any effect on the LR itself, or am I looking at it wrong (like focusing more on the effect it has on the cage itself)?

Thanks!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TheJet-09

2017 Lazer, the LRB shock is centered 7" inboard of the LR rotor (1.25" rotor) on the cage, but the LRF shock is 1 3/4" further inboard than that (a total of 8 3/4"). It's obviously by design, but I was wondering what opinions or experience there was out there regarding running the LRF in-line with the LRB, or pros/cons either way.

My concern is the further inboard it gets, does it lose any effect on the LR itself, or am I looking at it wrong (like focusing more on the effect it has on the cage itself)?

Thanks!

---

Just as moving a spring inboard makes it softer, so does moving the shock.

I personally prefer a split between the two but ideally would want it the other way. This way as hike/ steer are induced the center line arcs towards the upper mount location instead of away. I have no actual testing to back up any of my theories but i tend to try and do everything possible within reason to facilitate shock movement to be a close to linear as possible. In my mind this creates the most consistent effect from everything making changes and general tunning for consistent

Where the shock is mounted will effect the amount of movement it has vs the actual movement of the rear end.

An easy way to check one vs another/multiple positions is to set the car on stands with rear tires jacked into ride hieght position (springs removed) and measure the exposed shaft length on the front shock and drop the LR tire in 1/2 or 1" increments and measure the change in the LRF shock shaft and compare.

Say where you are now (at 8.75 inboard) and the wheel drops 1" and the shock lengthens 1.25" per each time the rear end drops (this won't be linear it will change as it goes thru travel as the cage indexes but keeping it simple) then move shock to say 7" and repeat and write down. That 1.25" will likely be higher.

More outboard will generally move the LRF shock more, thus increase the travel and therefor speed of the shock for that same amount of travel of the LR tire. Thus making the shock act stiffer and have more dampening. You can obviously change the shock valving and get similar rates instead of moving shock and changing travel/speeds. So one isn't really right or wrong, just different and you can move the shock to change speeds/travels and get an idea if the car likes more or less valving. The real problem is different positions are going to have different curves and progressiveness or digressiveness and that's hard to account for by changing valving.

Also think about both directions (comp and rebound) on speeds and travels to see if it stiffens or softens that direction and keep that in mind

Thank you for the responses!

I was looking at a fairly new Warrior last year, and the front shock mount(upper) is moved inward quite a bit more!