Rocket recommends a range of 150-250 extended load on the LR. I’m hearing some guys are getting up in the 300s. Has anyone tried this with success? If so what other changes (if any) did you make to go along with it?
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Rocket recommends a range of 150-250 extended load on the LR. I’m hearing some guys are getting up in the 300s. Has anyone tried this with success? If so what other changes (if any) did you make to go along with it?
I think 300+ is common with an air shock. You just need to know that the extended load will rotate the car when its slowing. If you like what the car is doing, there would be no need to jack that value up.
More extended load would rotate the car better off throttle correct?
Yeah. It makes it "drag" more, so car will pivot around the lr when coasting or using the brakes.Quote:
Originally Posted by shadowj38
Makes sense. My shock builder has me experimenting with some higher loads. 600 static on my RR and 300 extended on my LR with a #75 barrel spring. If I’m out in clean are and can drive the car hard into the corner (how I prefer) it feels pretty good. But in traffic when I can’t enter as hard as I’d like, it doesn’t feel like it wants to stick the RR. I dropped down to a 450 static load in my RR and it definitely helped. Was kind of tight early on but come feature time it felt really good for the 4 laps I got to run before getting caught up in a wreck. I guess I’m just searching for the right balance between the 2.
When you say static load on the RR, is that smasher number @ ride HGT pin to pin?
Yes. 600 at 20 inches center to center on my smasher.
Seems like a lot. what are your thoughts on how it's felt? what's your 2" number?Quote:
Originally Posted by shadowj38
It was around 1130 with 2 rubbers if I remember right. It didn’t seem like it wanted to stick the RR if I was in traffic. If I was in clean air and could drive in hard it felt pretty decent. Thinking without being able to enter hard, it wasn’t transferring enough weight the travel the RR at all.
Another question as far as the LR goes... with a #75 barrel spring, at 300 pound extended load, i can only get my static load to 600. Rocket wants 715. Does my lower static load matter? How low is too low? Also, would I benefit From going to like a 175/175 stack instead so I can set my extended and static loads separately?
Static load only matters on a restart. If you want, throw a bump stop on there and shim to hold the car up.Quote:
Originally Posted by shadowj38
Thank you for the advice!
I've been told to start at around 200 or so to start the night and back the droop load down as night goes and track gets slick. I generally run Saturday nights at senoia in limited with a 525. What is everyone else's usual adjustment. Will welcome p.m. if need be. Thanks!
My shock builder told me to basically stick with 300 on my LR and to tune the car with the RR load.
So on a Rocket setup sheet I've seen they say 150 LR droop load to free up, 250 to tighten up... but I've taken out LR load to gain sidebite and it made better grip all around in the slick. So why the conflicting info? Is Rocket saying this just to affect drive on exit or what?
Much of the confusion comes in from the attitude of the car at certain times. Example:Quote:
Originally Posted by matt_s86
Say the car is 100% against the chain all the way around the track (adding load to the LR spring DOES NOT mean there is more load on the LR tire to the ground) therefore you may/should not see much change in exit adjusting the extended load.
Now if you say lower it and it allows the car to set down some, then obviously this is gonna change exit.
Again a lot of this boils down to attitude and if the car is seeing weight come back to the LR on entry.
That's some good info. I probably wasn't really considering whether i was against the chain the whole time.What I'm trying to understand however is why would Rocket tell you to ADD load to tighten up when it seems as though removing load tightens the car up? What am I missing here?
As a general statement I would agree that most of the time for most people adding extended load with tighten the car thru the middle on the gas. But as I said it's not always gonna be true and sometimes the change in entry is felt as a change in exit mostly by the driver because the car is turned more or less then before so they really only notice the exit as the change but the change was actually due to entry.Quote:
Originally Posted by matt_s86
So much depends on the cars attitude and what the driver is doing in the car, to what your gonna feel or see as far as where or how it changes the car. If the driver/car tends to stay up a ton and barely moves getting in, then LR load will effect entry more then exit. If the car tends to drop and not stay up as well, then usually the driver feels it more as an exit adjustment but it still effects entry they just typically don't feel it.
Note: when I say entry I mean off the gas, if your not lifting then there is no real entry
Not to argue or contradict anything but where have you seen this info from rocket ?Quote:
Originally Posted by matt_s86
A friend sent me a sheet which appears to have come straight from them. Maybe I've misinterpreted it. "Extended load: 24.00" C-C 200# LoadAdd turns to top coil over nut to add extended load or take turns out to take away extented load. 150# will free the car up and we go up 250# to tighten up"
The way I read that "turns to top nut", you are basically adding static LR bite. Which in general terms would be correct add wedge to tighten car and remove to loosen car - talking on throttle adjustment.Quote:
Originally Posted by matt_s86
Sounds like they are describing a STD single spring, stack spring with no stop nuts or a digressive stack, all which adjusting the top nut will raise static bite.
Many smart people that I have talked setup with seem to miss the fact that if the lr is on the chain, no amount of adding bar angle or extended load to the lr will matter to the car at that point. If you want to add left rear drive/and decel wedge, add it by raising the rf ride height 1/2 of an inch. This adjustment adds lr drive even if the lr is on the chain at the point where you need more lr drive. A very similar adjustment would be to lengthen the lr chain 1/2 inch. This assumes that your lr shock(s) will allow the lr to travel another 1/2 inch. Wedge adjustments and adding or subtracting drive from a rear wheel are both adjustments that work for anything from a bomber car to a Cup Car.
While you are correct most people who are chasing lr drive are generally looking in the wrong area. They are usually to tight across the center witch induces their loose exit. Adding to the rf will make the car tighter everywhere when on fuel and especially at initial throttle pickup in our before centerQuote:
Originally Posted by dirtdobberrr
I also received the same sheet. Robbie at rocket emailed it to me.Quote:
Originally Posted by matt_s86
So what you’re saying is, if the car is indeed balanced well and just need a little more drive off the corner, adding extended load won’t add drive because of the chain limiter? Not arguing, just trying to understand because I had never given that a thought.Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtdobberrr
When your chain is tight, all up and down forces are balanced. All that's left is the weight on the lr. Most people don't have a tight chain all the way around the track, however.
If you can't get to the static/extended load you want or need ,a longer spring is necessary most likely if a single 75#. Buy a quality spring!