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Check out www.hammondmotorsports.com for there setup tools for setting up your race cars. https://hammondmotorsports.com/compl...carrying-case/ Caster gauge that you do not need to turn the tires to set caster and the set up plates to get all 4 tires in the correct locations.
Should the dynamic caster settings be different than static?
When the chassis heights change as much as a current lm does, that is the result.Quote:
Originally Posted by MachineMasters
I have been using the caster numbers the car builder ask for but set in with RF down and LR hiked up . I have some videos of this on my pages thank you Dave
I'm sure that really changes the front end feel. When most people end up with negative caster when the right front travels down
My LM loses 2deg caster at attitude. Any thoughts on what would preferred, gain/loss/maintain?
Sam 73 are you using my setup plates and caster camber gauge. If you are using my tools and putting the chassis in dynamics what you are seeing is the frame move making the change in your readings What I have been doing is if car builder ask for 4 degrees of caster at ride height Im just putting that amount in at Dynamics. Then at ride heights Im not doing the caster camber any more plus you should really look into what toe in dynamics aswell. 563 659 1153 thanks Dave
Did the builder not factor in chassis movement?
Kinda where I'm atQuote:
Originally Posted by MasterSbilt_Racer
Back when I had my pull down rig and the standard caster camber gauge you could do caster at ride height but as soon as you put a pull on the rf and hike in the LR you could not turn the wheels to check caster. My Caster camber gauge Im building at this time, you do not need to turn the wheels. So by not turning the wheels we can run chassis in dynamics and see what it happening better.
From the looks of it... no. LF looses its ass also. On the plus side I guess I'm looking at a potentially great improvement by correcting this.Quote:
Originally Posted by MasterSbilt_Racer
Dave I have both your plates for mods/stockcars and the wide 5. Love em. I do not have the caster fixtures and your correct on not being able to check the rf at dynamic.. what I do have is the drp 4wheel laser and I'm able to check the caster with a digital level with the wheel fixture attached. My base is 2deg on the rf and 0 on the LF static. Rf loses 2deg and the LF looks like its loosing 3deg. I would like to have this maintain as close as possible the static settings. I haven't checked what the bump is doing but I'm sure it's well confused as it moves thru static to dynamic. I just wish I had taken the time to check before now.Quote:
Originally Posted by hammond motorsports
So because tube lf looses caster in travel that automatically means the manufacturer didn't factor it in. Have you noticed how with the new setups a and more travel the manufacturers front end settings have changed aswell. Seems to me they might of had a inkling something was going onQuote:
Originally Posted by sam73
The LF looses a deg more than the rf and both uppers are 1/2 deg down hill at the front at ride height. I guess I should start with 5 on the rf and 4 LF and not worry about it.
I would set it to whatever your chassis manufacture recommends if it's an older chassis they may have updated settings