Just bought a very used KSE tandem pump to rebuild. Looking for a recommendation for the pill size for methanol...and any rebuild tips you may have.
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Just bought a very used KSE tandem pump to rebuild. Looking for a recommendation for the pill size for methanol...and any rebuild tips you may have.
Thanks.... I have looked at that page but figured someone might have a different experience with the std. .160. If not I'll start there.
They do make a kit. I cam check mine when I get to my shop in a bit. I'm on e85 on a 358 steel head. It should get you in the ball park.
Mark all sections (to line back up and which side faces forward) before taking apart (scribe an arrow on all sections pointing forward towards pulley). If you put one in backwards, it won't work and easy to do without reference marks (seen that done numerous times).Quote:
Originally Posted by Krooser
Personally I'd ditch the pill and just run a return line with a regulator as you'll have better control over fuel pressures.
I bought this deal used and in pieces typical for my 'no buck' budget.
I have to replace the gerotor in one section since the inner piece is broken... not uncommon from what I hear. I'll clean it up as it looks like it's been rolling around in the 'spare parts' box for 20 years.
I have a throttle bypass that I plan on using. I know some guys prefer the inline bypass but I have the throttle deal on the shelf and it's one more thing I don't have to buy.
BBC... you are saying that I can ditch the pill and simply run the bypass on the return line? I've heard this from others online but I'd really trust the guys here on this rather than from some online guru who get's his knowledge from watching reruns on Lucas Oil TV!
Yes, just remove pill and spring and just run that line to the regulator and back to tank. Both are the same basic thing, it's just bypass regulation to get the required pressure.Quote:
Originally Posted by Krooser
If it broke the G rotor on one section, the old ones had 1/4" thick g rotors on the fuel side and with high RPM engines they would break. newer ones where updated with thicker gears, maybe .375 if I recall correctly but that was years ago when that happened. To be a .25 think gear it's really old like late 90's.
I do not believe that information is correct. KSE's standard pump has a 1/4" fuel section whether is is the old style square pump or the new tandem X pump. The 1/4" standard pump is used on all gas application and alcohol up to 750 HP. The high volume pump has a 5/16 fuel section and is only used on 750 HP and over alcohol motors.Quote:
Originally Posted by billetbirdcage
I do agree that a bypass regulator mounted on the fuel log is a better choice than the pill for a carburetor application. The closer to the carb the regulator is the more accurate is will be.
It's an older.model with a 2500 or so serial number. 1/4" geroter on the fuel side. This will be a 600hp 7,000 rpm deal so it should be ok. I'll be in to it for about $300 when rebuilt. I could have bought a newer used one in working condition for a bit more but this one will be fresh.
Maybe what I'm remembering is that we went to the high volume one or maybe they made they started making it at that time to solve the problem. I just know tons of us that were using 358 18* engines turning 9000 RPM where having trouble breaking them and went to the thicker gear and it stopped.Quote:
Originally Posted by petesbuyin
It wouldn't be the first time I was wrong and won't be the last I'm sure, lol.
I've been wrong more than right... ask my wife!Quote:
Originally Posted by billetbirdcage
take a piece of glass and put a piece of wet /dry 600 grit sand paper on the glass and run your end plates on the side where the gears run over it with some wd40 , you want it slick and smooth with least amount of scratches and grooves as possible , if there grooved up pretty bad , replace them , I still swap pills to get fuel pressure correct , but I am switching to regulator on next build......
I just found a BG inline regulator in my stash...got another alternative now.
Thats a great set up there, fuel line straight into the log, no pill, return line off the regulator other end of the feed. A -10 fuel line, -8 return. Thats what we ran for years now on 18* motor that made 700hp or so, never a problem with fuel. Sometimes to much at the ends of the straights but an easy fix usually.
We just switched to a new motor, and running a mechanical pump, not real found of the idea yet, but we shall see.
The things I learn in my old age...
This has been a good post. I purchased a turn key late model with a Wissota engine on methanol. It had 2 return lines, the one off the pump with the .160 pill and one off the log with regulator which I found odd. Looked at KSE website and eliminated the the regulator. Well when I fired the engine it looked like a top fuel dragster it was running so rich. I installed the second line with regulator and it ran perfect. Still would like to run only one return line. If I run off just the regulator and eliminate the KSE pump return line will that do the trick? Is the KSE regulator a good piece. I see it uses Holley jets which you can change to set idle fuel pressure.
Also wanted to add that my idle pressure was 3 psi. so I was surprised at how rich it was running. It must be a volume issue and not returning enough to the cell.
Take the pill out all together. The bigger the hole the less pressure. May fix it.
are parts still available for the old style pump?