helpin a guy out -
he has a 2 bolt block and wanting to machine to splayed 4 bolt does anyone have a " rough estimate " on what that might cost ball park figure ...
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helpin a guy out -
he has a 2 bolt block and wanting to machine to splayed 4 bolt does anyone have a " rough estimate " on what that might cost ball park figure ...
Depending on what caps he chooses, anywhere from $300-$500...
Just my opinion if your gonna spend the money to convert two bolt to a 4 bolt depending on the size motor you are building just buy a Dart SHP block. Till you add up caps machine work and boring block which you most likely will just go with aftermarket.
Ump street stocks dont alow after market blocks my guess.
Then i would look for a 4 bolt block with the nouglar iron caps 482 or you can use 4 bolt block with the cast caps and make them work i have done it for years with a 355 turning 8200 pushing 580 hp PM me if you want to know how.
i paid about a $1000 each for my two 010 blocks to be decked, bored, TP honed and splay caps installed then align bored.
thanks for the replys !!
My machinist did Oliver splayed caps and align bore for $275
JMHO I am not a big fan of the splayed caps I prefer the straight 4 bolt blocks....my .02
Why is that?
I saw a DIY kit somewhere that had a drill guide and the caps, not sure I'd be will in to do it though, and even if you did, you'd still have to have it align bored/ honed
With the splayed caps under torque can pull the cap out of true letting the seal leak also creates flex in the cap allowing it crack....didnt believe it till i saw some data from testing on it. prefer all 4 bolts torqued paralell to each other...just my preference...someone will argue the other way
What seal is there to leak? And you need to be sure you are line honing the block with the caps torqued properly... Never heard of it but I guess it could happen.
When the 4 bolt caps cracked the crank would walk slightly and the seals would start to leak....pull the oil pan and you couldnt tell anything was wrong so put new seals in and it would happen again or drop the crank at the end of the straight....then I had to use a different builder because my regular builder was backed up and talked with him he showed me where splayed caps could cause this issue started using the straight bolt blocks and havent saw this issue since
If that is true then why do all the after market race blocks use splayed caps?
Good question Terry. Rodeck, Dart, Brodix all have splayed caps on the center 3 mains and straight studs only on the end caps...
Still lost on the leaking seals. If you're busting splayed caps you have other issues.
Splayed are stronger than straight. The only cracking I've ever seen are those gold iridated Milidons, probably because they are offshore items.TB