LR Underslung Bar

I have a little bit of an older chassis and i've been doing some work to update the car and get as much travel in the LR as possible. With the work ive done, i'm seeing that the left rear hike gain is greater than what was built into the car. Would it be better to just remove the LR Underslung bar or build a new one with more droop built into it? Underslung bars are removable but would I be allowing more flex to the chassis by removing it? Ideas or suggestions? TIA.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Cranky

I have a little bit of an older chassis and i've been doing some work to update the car and get as much travel in the LR as possible. With the work ive done, i'm seeing that the left rear hike gain is greater than what was built into the car. Would it be better to just remove the LR Underslung bar or build a new one with more droop built into it? Underslung bars are removable but would I be allowing more flex to the chassis by removing it? Ideas or suggestions? TIA.

---

It's more critical on the rr, but I'd leave it in on the lr too. Especially if you want the car to live a long life.

Going inboard with it will help you too, as far as clearance

Be sure to check your yoke engagement. We ended up having to shorten our driveshaft by an inch after damaging the tailshaft bushing.

Just another internet opinion. I prefer the droop bar in and slightly inboard over the over rail stuff. Over rail ends up over built to keep the same durabilty. Over all chassis rigidity isn't effected much because the mounts are usually not attached to the rear clip at all but the instead the main cage. The only downside I see is slightly more difficulty getting the axle in/out but for real, how often are you having to do that anyway?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Lizardracing

Just another internet opinion. I prefer the droop bar in and slightly inboard over the over rail stuff. Over rail ends up over built to keep the same durabilty. Over all chassis rigidity isn't effected much because the mounts are usually not attached to the rear clip at all but the instead the main cage. The only downside I see is slightly more difficulty getting the axle in/out but for real, how often are you having to do that anyway?

---

What about coilover mounts?

If the bottom bar is actually in your way, then you have the option of cutting out the bottom bar and replacing it with a bar that has a curve in it. The curved bar allows one to keep the two bars running towards the rear, and it also allows one to get all the left rear drop that you u desire. Be careful though, unlimited left rear drop may not be what you actually need. If I remember correctly, anything over 45 degrees on the left rear lower bar was once considered excessive. Everything has changed with the new chassis, but I would not exceed 45 on the lower if I were attempting to take over the world. The current state of the art chassis make their magic by ballancing right front load, which dirrectly affects left rear load, but all this is almost scientifically ballanced with right rear load. The right rear and right front load ballancing is where all the magic is achieved. The right front must be soft enough, and must have enought rebound in the shock as to not reload the right rear too quickly. If the right front stands up too quickly, then the chassis will be throttle tight. If the rr is too soft, then the chassis will be throttle tight, if the rr is to storng, then the car will be throttle loose. People talk about roll centers, and moment centers, and 5th coils, and J-bars, and blah blah blah blah. The magic is in getting the right front soft enough, with the propper tie down shock, and fine tunning the rr spring rate.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by LRtireCHANGER

If the bottom bar is actually in your way, then you have the option of cutting out the bottom bar and replacing it with a bar that has a curve in it. The curved bar allows one to keep the two bars running towards the rear, and it also allows one to get all the left rear drop that you u desire. Be careful though, unlimited left rear drop may not be what you actually need. If I remember correctly, anything over 45 degrees on the left rear lower bar was once considered excessive. Everything has changed with the new chassis, but I would not exceed 45 on the lower if I were attempting to take over the world. The current state of the art chassis make their magic by ballancing right front load, which dirrectly affects left rear load, but all this is almost scientifically ballanced with right rear load. The right rear and right front load ballancing is where all the magic is achieved. The right front must be soft enough, and must have enought rebound in the shock as to not reload the right rear too quickly. If the right front stands up too quickly, then the chassis will be throttle tight. If the rr is too soft, then the chassis will be throttle tight, if the rr is to storng, then the car will be throttle loose. People talk about roll centers, and moment centers, and 5th coils, and J-bars, and blah blah blah blah. The magic is in getting the right front soft enough, with the propper tie down shock, and fine tunning the rr spring rate.

---

Yes, there are basically 2 concerns at each corner of the car

1) load on that tire
2) that tires alignment with respect to the surface and the other tires

What you described above is a description of that, specific to current DLM as they crutch the car to run rf down, LR up as it's faster to get all that aero than to make the suspension work better.

The tire being such a floppy, soft case, also masks the rigidity issues to some degree.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by MasterSbilt_Racer

What about coilover mounts?

---

Good point and a true story. Wasn't thinking that all the way through.

I always liked the bolt in lower bar. The stiffer that LR is, the better.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by MasterSbilt_Racer

Yes, there are basically 2 concerns at each corner of the car 1) load on that tire 2) that tires alignment with respect to the surface and the other tires What you described above is a description of that, specific to current DLM as they crutch the car to run rf down, LR up as it's faster to get all that aero than to make the suspension work better. The tire being such a floppy, soft case, also masks the rigidity issues to some degree.

---

My thoughts exactly. Carry on, Professor.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Henry Every

My thoughts exactly. Carry on, Professor.

---

Thank you!