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Building a 2.5 Ford, have pretty well wore out the search function on here and I must not be using the magic words. Would someone help point me to the info on how your firing them. Have found pics of Racedad's dual cam sensor setup, but cant find the info on building it. Alternative methods would be greatly appreciated as well.
Thanks,
Brent
if you are using the stock 2.5 block(not sure anyone would in the racing world)then crankfire is the only option.
Why would you not use it?Quote:
Originally Posted by car62
I am using it because it is what i have available and I have a spare. Just thought there might be an inexpensive alternative to buying a crank fire system.
Some hints:
You need 2 hall effect(gear tooth sensor type) sensors mounted 90 degrees apart triggered by 2 cutouts in the metal oilpump sprocket beltguide 180 degrees apart.1 sensor triggers 1 and 4 at 35 degrees or whatever BTDC every stroke(a waste spark system) the other 2 and 3.
The coils and ignition packs come from a mid nineties GM 2.2 in a Corsica,Cavalier,S10 etc.
If you use the right terminals they will begin to saturate the correct coil when the slot hits the sensor and fire when the slot closes.
You need to shut it down like a electric fuel pump so it quits when the motor isnt cranking/running or you will melt the coils as they will be on constantly if the trigger is on.
This is all I have time to give you but this in broad strokes is how it works.If you don't understand what I just posted don't try to proceed you will be wasting your time pursuing this.If you do undertstand it you have enough to fill in the blanks yourself and build a basically free ignition.I don't have the time or desire to instruct you all in basic electronics.
This works awesome and we have used it successfully for years but if you don't have a basic understanding of electronics and automotive ignitions you will be lost.Go buy something with a kit and pictures.
Thanks, appreciate the info
you can use an escort ign module and coil packs w/ stock crank sensor on late 2.5's. wiring diag can be found on internet. degreeing the eccentric ring for timing will take a little figuring w/ a degreeing wheel.
Way better oil pump on the newer block is why I do it.Quote:
Originally Posted by car62
Using a 2.5 distributorless dist block because it has a better oil pump seems to me to be an expensive way to try to create the wheel. As has been stated, If you understand the system that is one thing, but we all have been using stock and aftermarket oil pumps for years with distributors and they work just fine. However if you must, then the aftermarket trigger igns are the way to go.
the crank that comes with it when I pull one out at the junk yard also tickles my fancy. getting a distributor 2.3 small journal block and a 2.5 block only for the crank? Doesn't make sense to me.Quote:
Originally Posted by dannyracer6
We have run the 2.5s for 6 years both in our stuff and in motors we set up for other guys.NEVER seen an oil pump failure.
What I have seen is a lot of guys running pump in the pan 2300's have oil pumps,oil pump roll pins and intermediate shafts fail.
Time for the Mini's to get with the times.
I have a solution for you for sale for $1000. Totally programmable and will run fuel injection and ignition. PM me if interested.