Some of the cars racing at my local track are traveling there front ends like a latemodel tire tucked in the fender wheel cambered over how is this happening any info on this would be greatly appreciated
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Some of the cars racing at my local track are traveling there front ends like a latemodel tire tucked in the fender wheel cambered over how is this happening any info on this would be greatly appreciated
Are you allowed to move the shock mounts from the stock position?
If you can run tubular upper a-arms, run a shorter rf upper. If not legal, you'll have to do a fair amount of fabrication to shorten the stock ones.Also, many in my area are running springs in the 400lb range.
Yes we are aloud to relocate shocks and allowed aftermarket uppers we have to weigh 3100 u say u guys run 400lb front springs? Could u pm me more info on this I'd greatly appreciate it
What works on four bar car may not work on a stock four link... Might look cool...
your right krooser, i watch some of the metric street stocks trying to mimic the late models with the soft rt frt and bump stop and there left rear will be of the ground through the turn because the rear arms are binding up.
As we all know this is a monkey see monkey do sport
With a stock metric lower, how short are they going with the upper
You gotta admit though, Rocketmans (Richie Stephens) cars sure wins a lot of big races!Quote:
Originally Posted by fastford
beware who you listen to on here some real knuckle heads who have never done anything
The softest I was able to run was 680/630, people commented a lot about how much roll I got that was back in 08-09, won races in texas, iowa, alabama, nebraska etc. ran those same springs at 3100 and 3400 lbs
your right, looked at his car over at TST last year, he had a cone bump stop on the shock. i sure would like to have looked his rear over cause his left rear is planted pretty good.Quote:
Originally Posted by a25rjr
I really think a bump setup is to complicated and not needed on a street stock.i would rebuild the nose piece,pulling it forward ,make it wide as possible,low as possible (9'' at r/f) before I started on a different set up direction.
See post 9 and 11. I saw where he gets $20k for a roller, but they win ALOT!Quote:
Originally Posted by RCJ
Ignore post 10! He couldn't compete with Rocketmans cars!
Anyone have any recommendations on what springs and ride hieghts U would need? Also how much bite my car is a stock 4 link
ride heights dont ever change
lower a arms level to a few degrees down hill towards bj, rear half to inch higher than front
With stock front lowers, 3 1/2 in of up travel from ride height is about all you are gona get. I used to run a 7" RF upper arm to get the camber gain I was looking for (1 deg per in of up travel) . You need the LR to be planted with the RF pinned and a metric 4 link loves to bind up so unless you have all mono balls in your rear arms, it wont work. Best thing you can do is take rear shocks and springs out and with a person on each side, lift and move the rear in a figure 8, if it doesnt flop around, its to tight or bound up and thats what you have to fix first. Just my .02
Dave
You wouldn't happen to be running by nesmith rules, would you? There are a few lower a arm options that will gain you available travel over stock metric lowers.
Oh yeah which one would that be I'm on stock lowers right now
The johnson tubular lowers gave me an additional 2" of available travel at the wheel. Some of the top guys around here run camaro lowers, but it's not a bolt on swap. Have to cut and widen the rear mount. Camaro lowers also move the spring out closer to the bj and widen track width.
You can also notch the frame for tie rod clearance if its an issue under nesmith.
The Rocketman cars that I know are built to Nesmith rules. He uses the aftermarket frame.
The aftermarket frame also has a narrow crossmember and narrower frame horns that net more available travel without anything hitting.
i thought they were suppose to be exact replicas , i guess guess its like late models, if you can afford it you can buy an advantage ....
Yep. Smoke and mirrors. They're better...I can personally vouch that the tubular lowers aren't stock dimensions. I havent measured the tube frame, just seen the obvious advantages.... but then again, you can cut and move almost everything on a stock frame under nesmith's "gray area".
Who is rocketman
if you can use tubular lower a arms, you might want to contact Don @ Lightning Chassis. He builds a Ford tubular a arm that fits in the stock metric mounts. I have a metric mod chassis that is the best steering and front end feel that I have ever driven.
I do no know anything about the Nesmith rules, so you will have to figure out if they are legal or not.
Nesmith only allows johnson chassis lowers... although my johnson lowers have no serial numbers or identifying markings... and I've yet to see the tech jig used
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