What wheel loads and rates are you running..and year car.
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What wheel loads and rates are you running..and year car.
With an auto machine that sweeps? Or measuring correctly? 😎
is there a difference in your opininon doing auto vs manual?
It's not an opinion their is 100% a difference. And it's a considerable differenceQuote:
Originally Posted by sidewinder69
And the issue becomes do you do it right or do it how your guru does.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jking24
i cant read thru the bush beating comments, i understand you get different results. which do you believe is proper and why?
Shock dynos measure shock resistance (force varies with speed). Smashers measure static force ( varies by displacement). If you measure it with an auto machine, you are picking up static loads and dynamic loads. You now have an extra force that is created by a device that varies force based on velocity. Is that machine running at the same shaft speed as the shock on your car?Quote:
Originally Posted by sidewinder69
All measurements should be taken with the proper device. You should then use good data collection to know what is happening on the car and to calculate the forces actually seen. Then you are educated to properly apply the knowledge when you make changes to your package.
If that isn't clear enough, it comes down to who you are and how you race. If you want to just hand over money ever couple of months to shock builders and car builders, you need to do it exactly how they do, or you can't compare data.
If you are someone who continually works on their own stuff, updating your car to keep money in your pocket, you better understand what contribution each part of your car brings to the package. Only then can you make educated adjustments.
i understand the concept the different speed a shock moves, the force can change based off valving. so measuring it in auto machine function, which has its own speed it is moving therefore will input that shock force into the spring load you are measuring at the same time. which you are saying is not accurate, so better to do it manually with a toggle to it can settle the load?
The auto machine will correctly measure the shock force and spring force, but the shock force in that scenario has no correlation to what happens on the track because that's a different speed. It's actually a range of speeds. Yes, you should stop to take your readings.Quote:
Originally Posted by sidewinder69
It's not a matter of weather it is or isn't accurate its about it being relative. The takeaway here is it's different so if your getting info from someone you can't apply it unless you're doing it the same way. The auto machines read different numbers so if you're shooting for a specific number is not gonna be right if you don't do it the same. The same also goes for a standard machine. Some guys stop at their measurement and take the high reading others let it settle out all the bleed before taking the reading. The most important part is your doing the same way no matter how your doing it. But as MasterSbilt_Racer said if you need to buy your info and aren't capable of doing anything short of putting where they told you to it needs to be done in the same manner they did itQuote:
Originally Posted by sidewinder69
I guess the original question never really got attn here. There is lots of "generalised" numbers around this and lots to do with Driver experience and feel. Most are looking at 2" compression on RR between 3.5 - 4 compression on the RF and extended load on the LR. For my inexperienced son who now drives (Less than 10 nights in ANY car) we have found Rf 3.5 to 1800lbs, RR to 2 is 800, both are 225 springs and 150lbs LR droop load at 24 on 80lb spring. This an older Rocket that has had mods made to allow for significant more roll and XR1 style rear 4 bar plates.Quote:
Originally Posted by CCHIEF
1200#@ 3" and 1400#@ 3" could be the same thing, with 2 different methods. Using the same method, those 2 things will be very different on the car.Quote:
Originally Posted by Aussieracer71
Thanks MBR, yes I have used a sweep machine and I have a point and shoot version myself which I do like better.
consistency and note taking are the key here, do it the same way everytime, and right everything down in 1/2 inch increments , KEEP GOOD NOTES,
that way when you change something you know what you did and where to go back if you want to change it back ect