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I've purchased a used set of Ohlins LMJ Double Adjustable Shocks and want to take a the rod end off to insert a bump stop. The shocks I'm use to have a locking nut, these do not. Any tips on how to get the rod end off without screwing up the shock would be appreciated. Thanks!!
you'll have to get some blocks machined so they will clamp the shaft in a vise, make sure you mark the shaft and end of shock with a marker or paint pen, then spin it off, when you put it back on MAKE SURE NOT TO OVER TIGHTEN, if you do it will cause the adjuster (small pin) to get jammed up and not adjust, a little lock tight won't hurt either(I've never needed it but i have heard of them coming loose on some guys), BLUE LOCK TIGHT, its not a big issue but don't get carried away with tightening the shock end
Thanks for the info @grt74. I was wondering the same thing, but for LMP shocks, which I assume have the same end.
I have an old 4 1/2" grinder wrench that fits the two holes in the eye pretty good, so I'm hoping that helps.
Thanks GRT74; these babies are too expensive to ruin
Take a shock to machine shop and have them make soft clamps for you. I made my own but they didn't come out perfect so I have to use a few layers of aluminum foil to make good contact. A real machine shop may struggle also because they will need a 16mm round end mill to do it right and metric tooling like that isn't very common (and not cheap).
And yes, the end of an LMJ and LMP are the same.
Be sure to have the adjuster backed all the way out before you put the end back on.
matts right on the soft clamps (make them out of aluminum) and also on the adjuster being backed out 40 clicks, just forgot to mention that (sometimes i forget not everyone has fooled with this stuff), as far as the machine shop, just get a piece of 1 1/2 inch solid square aluminum 2-3 inches long, drill the center out with a 5/8 inch bit, then split it 1/16" off center, then use a belt sander or mill and cut off 1/16th to an 1/8th off the other one, so when you clamp it, it will have a small space in the middle so you can get clamps tight on the shaft
I ended up taking an old 5/8" hex tube and cutting it down length wise, polished up all the edges, and it worked fine.
One thing I learned, and probably worth mentioning for the OP is, the flat part with the two holes (for a shock wrench) where the bottom spring cup sits is actually separate from the heim end. It too is threaded, and actually acts as the lock-nut.
* ^^^ At least on what is possibly a newer design? I took apart a different shock after originally posting this and it's end was not two separate threaded parts. I'm new to Ohlins...
Thanks all, I took your advice and was able to get the rod end off without damaging the shaft