Have both sides floated on a 4/4. Want to try leveling out both right side bars. Spring is on top on the RR, shock behind. LR spring in front, shock in the rear. What kind of effect will this have ?
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Have both sides floated on a 4/4. Want to try leveling out both right side bars. Spring is on top on the RR, shock behind. LR spring in front, shock in the rear. What kind of effect will this have ?
It will likely carry the LF. least as far as attitude. It should be tighter on exit.
Tighter on exit would be good was hoping it would help mid turn with rr tied down. But all i can do is try it. THX
Will be changing to a z link on the rr to see how it will do. From what little i have read the bars need to be the same Lenght ?? Right now the bars on the right side are 17 3/4 inch (hole to hole) on top bar and 14 3/4 on the lower bar. I was told just to flip the top bar back and hook it up to a mounting bracket. Will this work ? I'm sure i can change the top bar no problem to a shorter lenght. Next, where do the bars need to be starting out ? Adjustments from there i think i can find out there somewhere. THX
To be a watts link, bars must be equal length and parallel. To be a z link, anything goes, just like a 4 link.Quote:
Originally Posted by badfast47
You seem to be spitballing on this deal. I'd start with the bottom 12 degrees uphill to front and top 5 downhill to rear. You will need to lengthen the bottom bar quite a bit, or run spring on backside of cage.
To be a z link, anything goes, just like a 4 link.
You will need to lengthen the bottom bar quite a bit, or run spring on backside of cage........
Running the spring on the back side of the cage, No problem.
For what it's worth on our lightning we always ran z link on RR with spring on axel tube. Our bottom bar was level or 0 degrees and about 15" long at ride height and our top bar z link bracket had 3 holes we always favored the bottom hole to drive RR thru corner. We had a 17 " bar on top we just tried to keep our bird cage at 12 and 6 at ride height. We kept it pretty simple if u need more RR move bar down or less RR move bar up. If that's not enough with bar crank a few rounds in or out of jack bolt. Not saying that's right or wrong but that's how we did it
It comes down to when you want the RR thrust. If you get most of it at ride height with the front bar, you loose RR thrust when wheel load is gained. If you get most of it from the trailing bar, then you gain more thrust as you gain wheel load.
Similar tradeoffs exist for dynamic steer as well.
Thanks for all the help. Just got out of the garage and was looking things over with the car i have. Don't like the spring on top set up that was put in this car, long story but...Have been doing a lot of reading and the last 2 post made up my mind. Decided to either use a slider on the rear with shock in front or coil over on the rear. The bars will come out to the 15" and 17" length, and have the bird cage at 12 and 6. Can't wait to try it out. Thanks again.