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I'm still learning on this metric stuff. Has anyone come across the long upper ball joints binding when suspension is jacked up off the ground? When I raise the chassis, the stud is hard against the ball joint housing and makes turning the spindle extremely hard.
do you have a tilted upper control arm?
No, it's all factory but I have day Motorsports tubular uppers
As soon as I put pressure on it by letting chassis down, it frees up. It's just when I have it raised up.
Not trying to be a smartass here, but why does it matter?
do you race with the car on jack stands?
If it bothers you put a limiting strap/chain on suspension so it does not fully droop.
or, lower upper a arm mounting point on chassis. that will help with ball joint angle, and also take some anti-dive out of it.
My worry is the left side being put in a bind. The lf is carried, for the most part, as long as I'm on throttle. Suspension limiters are illegal in my class, as well as modifying the mounts. As common as these cars are I thought maybe someone had ran across this before.
I have the outpace tilted uppers and the ball joint contacts the outer portion of the control arm at full droop until the arm angle increases and clears. I run mine on asphalt so I'm not concerned with droop angles. IF you have the tilted arm, replace it with the straight arm.
We had the same problem with our stock car. medievel chassis sells wedge shape spacers to correct that.
Change the angle of the ball joint mount. Cut it, re angle it, weld it. Problem solved.
On the control arm that is**** sorry.