what rear set up do yall like best for crate raceing??? 4 bar?? swing arm??? an whats the defferance in a swing arm an a z-link???
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what rear set up do yall like best for crate raceing??? 4 bar?? swing arm??? an whats the defferance in a swing arm an a z-link???
I like a 4 link BUT you can adjust yourself out of the race easier than you can make the car better if you do not understand the adjustments. A swing arm has the shock and spring on the link to the rearend, a Z link has the shock and spring on the birdcage.
You're going to get different opinions on this but here's mine: 4-bar is the way to go unless you are running almost exclusively on heavy and rough race tracks.
There are people out there that swear by swing-arm cars in any track condition but most of them will admit that they don't fully understand how to tune a 4-bar car so it's more of a comfort thing. That's not trying to offend anyone, it's just been my observation.
With a swing-arm the shock and spring mount directly to the lower (forward-facing) bar and the upper link faces rearward. With z-link (watts link) you have the lower bar facing forward and the upper bar facing rearward like a swing-arm but the shock and spring mount to a birdcage.
appreciate the info!!
4 bar cars will be better on all but the rough tracks. and as for the swingarm. go with a rayburn or maybe a pierce but stay away from mastersbilt swingarms. absolute junk IMO.
4 bar cars will also be easier to get help with as most manufacturers have many people running them. i will say that of those I prefer Rocket, GRT, and Warrior over most others and definantly dont recommend copies of anything due to the lack of tech support from a copier. most copiers changes things enough that the original design setups wont work out with the new car. being new to a chassis doesnt help when you dont understand whats going on enough to make the changes to get it right.
Youll also hear people claim that any car can be made fast. there is a point of diminishing returns. just because a car is safe strong and repair free doesnt mean its not used up in terms of flex. the original design took into account a certain amount of rigidity/flex and developed setups around that. over the years the chassis loses some of its flex or becomes too flexible as welds weaken and things are flexed too far or too often. this can have two effects one is undetermined time of failure of things such as pickup point bracket failures or weld failures and the second is that your setups will be two stiff/soft for the new flex status of the chassis. i prefer 7 years or newer and highly recommend sending any chassis you get back for as late of an update as possible and a restring to make sure the chassis is square.
Where do you put jackbolts in the rear of a leafspring car.
On the slider.