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I have a friend that has had a block in storage for a fiew years.
The numbers on it are
10051184
Having trouble finding info onit, all I can find is the 10051183. Would this block be a good investment to build something to make some POWER?
What kind of combo would work well for this in a steel block, steel 23* head get what you can outta it deal that would be run in special "open show run what you brung" deals...?
Danny
Good as it gets in a steel block.Only block any better is the 1184A block.Only reason the 1184A is better is because you can bore it bigger.
From what he says it came from a nascar west series team...Quote:
Originally Posted by perfconn
What would be a good combo to do since given that its most likely a 350...
Its probably a 350 main but the bore is probably at least 4.165 If you have no cubic inch limits I would put a 3.75 stroke crank with a 6.125 rod and get a set of RHS raised runner steel heads.Other engine builders will tell you to build a 430ci but I don't like to use longer than a 3.75 stroke in a 9 inch deck block.Besides that you can't get a good enough 23* head to support that many cubic inches.
I have a block that is bored out to 4.1256 according to my calipers. It's a 4 bolt 350 block (3970010). It has standard bore 400 pistons and 5.7 "x" rods with an 1182 steel gm crank.
Has anyone ever seen one bored that far? Cylinder wall still look thicker than a couple of .030 over blocks I have. I have had people tell me it's a Canadian block more than likely. How would I tell? I have even ran it as a backup a couple times and it still runs cool (never got over 190 degrees)
I got it with a car i traded for a few years back and couldn't believe it was bored that far! I have heard of rare occasions where stock 350 blocks were bored .080-.090 before but never this much!
How about a 377, whats the pros and cons between the 377-383 for something like this?Quote:
Originally Posted by perfconn
Got pics of the block today has GM 5.7 LG SGI and LO21 by the casting number stamped on the side too and its not splayed but all 5 main caps are 4 bolt.
Danny, you need to measure the bore...You will probably find, as Perfconn pointed out that it is a 4.155 or 4.165 bore...The typical "383" is a 4.030 with a 3.75 crank in it.... If you put a 3.48 or 3.50 crank in ur block you will have a close to "typical" 377...Big bore, shorter stroke...That's what we had with a roller cam and Dart 230's in our "Open Show" Super Stock, and we used it for a 1 1/2 in a Dirt late Model...We really liked that engine...easy to hook up coming off and would pull to 8,000-8,200 and not nose over...If you put a 3.75 stroke crank in it you will have a 406/410 type deal
It's no good. Do you want to sell it????? Just kidding.........
Lmao! :)Quote:
Originally Posted by TBRE
Dave: I remember that one you ran it was a nice piece indeed. I agree I need to find out the "true bore" cus Im still unsure some stuff I see/read says its a 3.98" other says like you guys say 4.1xx guess I better tell my buddy that Ill take it huh? Guess I fianlly found something to put the 50cc pro toplines I have had forever on huh? Fun fun fun ;D
Take a bore indicator or just a set of dial calipers and measure a bore...Won't be prcise, but you will know if it a 4.155 (.030 over) or 4.165 (.040 over) if it was ran, I'm sure it's not a 4.000 deal...Like everyone said, almost everyone used these blocks for a big bore combo to make the most HP...