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3 link 20'' trailing arms 20'' solid upper link 20'' rear mounted panhard bar. by locking up the upper link will it still allow the lr to hike the chassis up and create wedge will there be any movement at all? i was wondering this cause with a pull bar we had to mess with the panhard bar alittle to get it to work right since under exceleration the bar gains angle(loosens) and our j bar would lift it(tighten) if it doesnt change much we might just run a little less angle to keep it tight.
Run around 30 degrees of angle in the left rear bar and 20 in the right rear. Run the upper bar almost level or it will break the rear tires loose. With a solid upper link the rear does not wrap at all so the more angle you put in the bar the quicker it will hook but only for a short distance. I ran mine very close to level.
Lenghten the upper link if possible to 27 inch. Put 18 degrees down hill angle in it from the rear axle forward. Run your right lower bar level. Run your left lower bar at 10 to 15 degrees up in the front. You will have a very stable car that you will enjoy driving. I would mount the J bar so that the left side is mounted on the frame. have the right side of the J bar mounted 7 inches lower than left. The right side should level to just above the pinion for the mounting height. set the pinion angle at 3 degrees down. Make sure the upper link on the rear axle is mounted no more than 6 inches above axle housing and just rear of center. Good luck!
20 MAX solid upper link. 20 min REAR mounted panhard bar. new rules we had to give up the j bar cause the leaf guys didnt want us having it
HMS27, like he said on the left lower arm. I would put the right lower level to keep the oversteer down to a min.
Are the leaf guys have the rr floated?
those rules could be better for the 3 link guys a j bar is not as good as a straight bar anyway most top chassis builders will tell you a j bar hurts forward bite. here's a photo of what I believe is a 3 link due to the rr spring location.I know he does not have a solid top link but he's got a ton of rearsteer and body roll using a rear mounted straight panhard bar.on my mod with a 4 bar rear susp. I use a straight bar that mounts just under the pinion and mounts to the left frame rail like a j bar but much lower and that really helped my rr bite and the forward bite is very good that allows the use of a lower gear and that helps get the car off the corner better.Quote:
Originally Posted by ashurst21
Most of the front running leaf cars have tried floating the RR, and it is legal, but most if not all went back to locking it down because it was too tight on the super tacky Santa Maria clayQuote:
Originally Posted by Dirtrunner35
They should have added stagger or take angle out of the shackle. Tracks where I race are tacky mostly in the heat race and slick in the features. Ohio dirt, lol.
A j-bar only hurts if you have it high( high roll center) A straight bar is lower ( low roll center) . I've seen guys run the j-bar up side down under the pinion to get a lower roll center. A lower roll center makes less weight transfer.Quote:
Originally Posted by racin6mod