Wet sump open motor, how long are you running your oil vs1 oil with 1 quart of Lucas additive, 1 race 3 races or after so many laps?
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Wet sump open motor, how long are you running your oil vs1 oil with 1 quart of Lucas additive, 1 race 3 races or after so many laps?
How much compression, rpm, and HP?Quote:
Originally Posted by Hammadown
Wet sump open and crate motors, with 9.5-10.5 compression, 6200 - 7400 rpm, and 350-450 HP.
I use Driven (Joe gibbs racing) full syn 5w-30 or 10w-30 and I DONT do a complete oil change all season. Thats about 30 nights for me. I DO change the oil filter (Wix racing) every 3 nights and the wix air filter every night (unless its heavy all night and zero dust). Changing the oil filter does add 1 new quart of oil every 3 nights.
These are low hp engines, and low compression, but this oil is rated for 500 miles of racing in a 600-700 hp engine at much higher compression and rpm.
Ive been doing this same method for 7-8 years now and it has worked very well for me. A couple very important keys to oil life is keeping ALL the dirt out of the engine, keeping the fuel out of the oil (proper tuned carb), and keeping engine and oil temps as low as possible. My engine temps are almost always 190-195
I assume none of these engines you are running that oil in are flat tappets ?
The open motors with the 10.5 compression and 7400 rpm were flat tappet. Thats what I ran the 10w-30 in, but the engines were built to run that weight oil.Quote:
Originally Posted by fastford
358, flat tappet, 7500-7800 rpm on alky with Brad Penn oil. 3 shows on oil and a wix filter.
Driven is big on longoil change intervals with a filter change every few weeks
We run six weeks on Brad Penn or Mobil one with zinc added in 358 all steel flat tappet motors with compression ratios a little above 11-1 turning 7900-8100 on methanol. Half mile racetrack 8 lap heats and 25 lap features. We change the filter every other week and the oil every sixth and from what i see were could easily run longer. We have run the driven stuff and it works well when their are no issues but it can get costly quick if you have any engine or fuel system problems. We also ran it the whole season just changing filters
All iron mostly 383s from 10-12.75 compression flat tappet engines on gas that are home built with good but not exotic parts we do the new filter every 3 or 4 shows and full oil change at 6 or 7 races. Lucas or Valvoline VR1, both non synthetic, at 72-7400 rpm although one of our regular joints restricts engines over 363 cubes to 6600 and the engines are very clean inside.
Tore down the 10-1 engine we call old faithful over the weekend after 45 races just because it's cheaper than the run it till you blow it system. We had some wins and several good finishes over some very good and much bigger engines on a tour group we run with. I was, frankly, amazed at the condition of the bearings, cylinder walls, crank, etc. and this one will be a very cheap freshen. Tops of the pistons had a little carbon from some carb issues we had late last season but that was the only issue.
This with a 3,000 lb. Super/Pro stock on dirt tracks, some of which are very dusty and gritty and this one kind of makes up for the ones we've scattered on the 1st or 2nd outings.
358 bmod motor. 9.5-1 7200. VR1 20-50 wix racing filter. 3 nights on filter, 6 nights on oil. 3/8 mile track
i personally run the schafer racing oil in all my flat tappet engines , it has plenty of zinc in it , like the old delo 400 use to have , which is all we ever ran in them till they went low emission......
Update on my post from this spring....
Started the year with a new engine, 37 nights on it so far, couple races left yet this year. still running the Driven (Gibbs) oil. ZERO oil changes all season, oil filter changed every 3 nights. Just did a cylinder leak down test a couple weeks ago and its still at 3%.