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Recently had a set of Beyea’s, after 10-12 Races (using hangers) they were cracked all to pieces. Both sides seemed to crack at the collectors, where you cant weld them back up. Whats everyone seeing power wise out of the DynaTech’s vs the Schoenfelds???Alot of people say the Beyea Crate headers are the best out there, but for the price, they lacking durability.
The beyeas are the only headers that we havent had crack all tò pieces have had dynatech and schoenfeilds both have fell apart after half a season. We have had no issues with our beyeas i would contact them
I ran all three with no hangers and never had one crack that wasn't wreck related. Switched from Beyeas to Dynatechs for last three years and didn't notice a difference. But you gotta be real good to notice a few HP here or there. Lol
I've seen Brad talk about the difference in top end vs bottom end on one of these threads.
Contacted Beyea a few weeks ago, they only wanted to sell me another set. LolI understand the average driver is not gonna notice a few HP, but didn’t wanna try to save a few bucks and regret it later. Ive looked back through several pages and couldn’t find Brads post about different brands, so I was hoping he could shed some light on this topic. I know on Race1’s site they only offer Beyeas, and Hendren seems to like Dynatechs.
i know a guy who wraps his headers claims this keeps them from cracking plus keeps the heat in the header.
how old are the Beyea headers that cracked?
Did you weld the left side extension to the collector or did you utilize the spring system?
Brad
www.race-1.com
Bought at the end of last year. They are welded at the extensions which very well could be a lil of the problem.
Dirtslinger,
that is the problem
there is a big note taped inside every set of DLM headers we receive from them that says do NOT weld the extension to the left side header
if you have ever witnessed a modern chassis in a tie down machine you would know why
but never the less I feel like Joe and Scott do the best overall job and they do their best to make the customer aware of mounting issues that will break the tubes
It's a good group of people there and that is why we deal with them
Joe is a visionary when it comes to exhaust function and performance---if he truly thinks their product is lacking in a certain area he will go back to work no matter how many are on the shelf
Brad
www.race-1.com
Thanks for your reply Brad, it totally makes sense. I will order a new set today!
If ordering new----
give me a call and we can go over the differences in design
we have pretty much settled in to a primary tube design that we stick with and change the extension and muffler to trim the exhaust to your liking
our go to deal that is the most popular is 2 3/4 extension into a packed muffler
however we do still on occasion use the 2 1/2 extension
and we still have a few that swear the 3" is the way to go
we also run a chambered (anti-reversion) muffler in some systems as well
Brad
www.race-1.com
will the 604 and 602 use the same header or are the ex. ports different?
Brad what kind of power differences are you seeing in the beyea vs. the competitors headers of the same configuration?
602 and 604 header flanges are very different
the bolt pattern is the same and either header can be bolted to either head but especially when talking the 604
this is one of the biggest mistakes made in crate racing and its putting the wrong header flange on a 604 engine
the 602 is a bit more forgiving because the port is smaller and in most cases the port will match up to the header flange
for best performance it starts with the correct flange before we ever get to all of the engineering that surrounds headers
check your flange by using a gasket
think of the header flange as a funnel ----we do not want to cover ANY portion of the port with the header flange
the 604 has a larger port but the main thing to realize is that it also has a raised runner meaning the port is not centered
there is more area of the port above the centerline of the bolt pattern than conventional designs thus requiring a different flange
some manufacturers have redesigned flanges that will accommodate both heads ----I personally still prefer a specific fit
as for differences between manufacturers ---I have to be honest and admit that I really don't hunt around ---I believe in relationships and communication within those relationships
we communicate well with Joe and Scott Beyea and when we think we are lacking in a certain situation we talk it out and logically come up with an adjustment.
keep this in mind---
headers are a give and take
when you give to the top end of the power range you take from the bottom and vice versa
the trick is to give to one more than you take from the other
we also consider drivabilty and torque peaks when making design changes
hope some of that helps
the big take away here is make sure you have the right flange---that is where it starts
Brad
www.race-1.com
When buying a set of Beyea's, Why would i choose 2 3/4" collector over a 3" collector? or vise versa? thanks!
several years ago Beyea went from 3 inch collectors to 2 1/2" collectors---there were some other tweaks that went along with the step down in collector but testing showed very close power numbers between new and old but obviously when ever you go smaller it is going to accelerate up to peak torque quicker and it did
so at that point it was decided that the newer design was going to race better and became the standard crate header of Beyea
after a year or so of race track testing with the new standard package it was determined that a few areas in the power curve that suffered do to the smaller design seemed to be more of a draw back than originally thought.
Joe went back to work in a logical manner and along came the 2 3/4" collector
tweak or two in the system and it was the best balance between 1st design and second design.
this is what I love about Joe and Scott Beyea----they work logically and stay within parameters
they don't jump on anything----they build on their strengths and work on their weaknesses.
to answer your question more directly
the 2 3/4 will accelerate better but lack a digit or two of HP past peak HP--- in other words the 3 inch design will carry 1 to 2 more HP after it reaches peak power
hope that helps
Brad
www.race-1.com
Dirtslinger20
are you using an automotive style exhaust hanger?
I personally like a hanger from an auto parts store that has a block of rubber in it, and a j hook that you can hose clamp the to the header.
I have had great luck with this setup.
are the headers so bad that you cannot weld up and reuse?
This is actually an old post from 2017, but yes we use the J-Hangers with a hose clamp and haven’t had a problem with this set. Maybe the old set was just a bad set. The only issue was when they cracked where all 4 tubes come together and couldn’t get the weld down in there too well, but we was able to finish the season out on them.