Cooling LS engine

Have a LS setup in my Rocket .. working really well. Running a little hot under full race conditions. I'm sure its because the nose is on the ground and not getting a lot of air in there. Anybody else experience cooling issues with the nose sealed off ?

I'm about to add a fan shroud. Fan is 1.5" off radiator .. 6 blade 17" fan. Works well except under hammer down soft tire heavy track racing (most load on engine).

I've seen a couple of the other guys put 3 or 4 holes in the nose, around 3" in diameter.

Whats the oil temps?
I know someone experienced this earlier this year and fixed it with burping the system, nose way up, ass way down, and a expansion tank.....Getting all the air out is a real pain in the as.....
Oh yeah, double checking the coolant bypass hoses is good too, the routing is VERY important.
Second to that, Ballwin Racing engines says sometimes the CT525, they just run hotter but doesn't have much more of an explanation to the specifics of it. Also, this is second hand info, but he's a close family member anyway.

We have a shroud and 4 blade 17" Jones. Runs about 195 to 205. This is on E85.

With no shroud our fans are always as close to the radiator as possible to the radiator otherwise the fan will pull air around it between the blades and radiator instead of pulling air through the fins.

MB,
Unrelated questions, Who do yo use for your E85 carbs?

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Originally Posted by Lizardracing

MB,
Unrelated questions, Who do yo use for your E85 carbs?

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IIRC, they used a factory holley e85 carb but it had issues and had to modify the fuel curve. As i remember it, the jet sizing was just way off but wasn't a hard fix

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Lizardracing

Whats the oil temps?
I know someone experienced this earlier this year and fixed it with burping the system, nose way up, ass way down, and a expansion tank.....Getting all the air out is a real pain in the as.....
Oh yeah, double checking the coolant bypass hoses is good too, the routing is VERY important.
Second to that, Ballwin Racing engines says sometimes the CT525, they just run hotter but doesn't have much more of an explanation to the specifics of it. Also, this is second hand info, but he's a close family member anyway.

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Water temps were hitting 235ish. Oil temps were hitting 280ish.

I do have an oil cooler. Have burped the system and steam lines are plumbed to the water pump.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Lizardracing

MB,
Unrelated questions, Who do yo use for your E85 carbs?

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Billet is right about the one carb. Other one is from Pro Systems in Michigan. It runs great out of the box, but been having issues with secondary shaft sticking.

Funny you mentioned the metering curves and secondaries because I did as well. I started off as a box stock QFT and while it worked, Mark made it WAY better. HE doesn't like the "Green Blocks" at all and I have no idea whats different about his, but it works very well so I don't question it. It's the corn syrup doing to mine I'm pretty sure. Carb cleaner will fix it real quick and be okay for the night but sits till the next week and its stuck again when hot. I think what happens is the air charge is pulling heat from the carb and intake and it's causing condensation. MIne will literally be sweating, that mixes with the tiny amount of fuel on throttle shaft bushings. Spray and it goes away, comes back next week about feature time. I tried the BLP heavy duty spring and it helped some. When I added a an extra spring to the secondary from the shaft to the valve cover bolt it's been great all year. The front is not effected because of the heavy return spring.

Anyway, back to the subject at hand,
280 oil temp doesn't seem terrible and I wouldn't blame the oil temps for overloading the cooling system.
Clean the radiator real well, soak it overnight and tap it on the shop floor, make sure the radiator isn't swelled up from excessive pressures, as big a fan as you can get in there, a well built shroud should help, watch the timing and expansion tank may help. Of coarse a good water pump and belts are important.
Just some ideas.

I find many carbs don't have the secondary spring wound tight enough for circle track and high dirt environment. Many times you can wind the spring another round and sometimes you can't but ones you can wind an extra round usually fixes sticky secondaries.


Lizard, you said mark are your referring to Mark Whitener goes by Audio something on many forums

Possibly Mark Sullens, seems to be a Guru of E85. LS cooling can be tricky, not sure on the CT525 rules, but the LS cools better if all 4 corner cylinder head bleeds are run back directly to the water outlet housing. Check how your rules are written before changing. Now that is 4 individual hoses to outlet not back to a common and then 1 hose as per the factory setup.

Billet,
I meant Mark Sullens. E85 is all he does and had done for 25ish years. Drag, round track, pulling truck, marine and others. etc.
Another really good one is Eric at HP Innovations.
Almost every major player has a market option but these are the only two I trust for the E85 specialty. Whoever you choose, listen to them, they all do their thing a little differently. I picked Sullens because of his tech support, willingness to teach me and his openness to try to help guys with carbs not his, and his shop is literally down the street from my shop.
I really honestly cant figure out why everyone isn't on it unless it's a rules deal and in that case, the rules are stupid. We all know how that works though.

Jeff at Baldwin Engines would second Aussie on that.

I would say a good shroud would make a big difference.

we have a modified with a 602 so not exactly the same but we run the AFCO LW single row dual pass radiator, with a very basic shroud and a Gorsuch 3 blade and this setup has been very good for us this year. Not a single overheat

We run a JDR E85 carb with bypass regulator and it also has been very good for us. Run X85 fuel most of the year, but by late summer early fall the ethanol contents are high enough we can run out of the pump pretty safely as well.