GM block,
Where is the usual place for the switch?
I was considering the 1/8" NPT ports at the bottom of the water jackets just above the pan rail
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GM block,
Where is the usual place for the switch?
I was considering the 1/8" NPT ports at the bottom of the water jackets just above the pan rail
My radiator has a pre tapped spot for it. Drivers side about 4' up from the bottom.
Doesn't matter where you put it weve run it right in the top of the water pump, in the intake or thermostat housing spacer. Theoretically the block could have more pressure as a result of the restrictions from gaskets,thermostats or restricter plates. But it is my experience that if that's true it's minimal because I've run them about everywhere but ever your suggesting and they work just fine
Typically there are in the thermostat housing or the intake, but as said anywhere is fine. However I would probably not select the block there, just for the fact it's likely to get knocked off from dirt/debre like the little jumper wire on the starter gets broken often.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lizardracing
Agreed aswell as the water flow in that area of the block is relatively low so their tends to be sediment/ rust build up down their at times this could be detrimental to the sensorQuote:
Originally Posted by billetbirdcage
I had mine in the water ports running from the back of the intake to thermostat housing. Fragola has a -6 male to male connector block that has a 1/8" hole tapped for it
We spoke of these previously and someone mentioned one from parts store that works great, maybe old Chevy? Anyways, y'all wouldn't happen to know what or part # of something local that works good? Tried the Longacre route and it seems to be bad or wrong sensor as billet diagnosed. Wanting something to solve issue now not later
Jim, check this out https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-C8020...B7FA4F5XMHTKSGQuote:
Originally Posted by Jim11h
From what I read it's 5psi and is grounded when below 5 PSI and not above 5 PSI, so should be correct the way I read it and the comments below.
If you have an old school parts store with an older parts guy that can look stuff up, look for a oil pressure sending unit that just has an oil light and no gauge and it should work. Most are around 5 PSI that I can remember, you just need a experienced parts guy that doesn't look up parts by year and the computer, lol.
That part number fits:
Results may be incomplete due to size of result set
AMERICAN MOTORS 1958-1979
AUSTIN 1969-1972
BUICK 1959-1985
CHEVROLET 1960-1990
CHRYSLER 1984
DODGE 1984-1988
EAGLE 1988-1989
FIAT 1966-1970
FORD 1958-1970
GMC 1982-1989
HUDSON 1948-1956
INTERNATIONAL 1957-1980
JAGUAR 1970-1990
JEEP 1959-1991
NASH 1952-1957
OLDSMOBILE 1957-1987
PACKARD 1953-1958
PLYMOUTH 1984-1988
PONTIAC 1960-1987
SAAB 1971-1976
STUDEBAKER 1956-1964
TRIUMPH 1967-1981
VAUXHALL 1959
VOLVO 1965-1984
https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/ac...+/+switch,4588 $5.04
That's awesome to know if I ever need one right now!
I bought the Longacre one for $15. I needed an adapter for the water jacket hole in the block but it was 1:30am so what are you gonna do? I whittled one out of aluminum on a lathe in about an hour. It's done.
I am always quite amazed at the number of people who don't realize that most everything on a race car comes from something else but because it's got racing in the name, the price is doubled. I refuse to buy any guage of any kind from any racing source because they are junky and expensive. Instead I buy gauges from industrial gauge assemblies for half the price and work better. A lot of things are like that though.
NOTE: Again to be clear that part number appears to be the correct part to do the water pressure light, but I'm going off the listing details and comments that it is correct.
So use your discretion that it is correct
Your the (not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word) billit. I never even thought about the old cars where oil light popped on when low. Had a few them old 70s rides that oil change meant just filter since leaked and burnt faster then the 3k miles lol. I agree on the "racing" items but for one's don't know, forget, or need easy item lookup the racing thing works. Some of the racing stuff built better though to withstand the abuse
I picked up one of 70s Chevy and tada worked excellent. Fire car lights on. Build temp and pressure and light goes off. Especially proved that new in package unit was bad or wrong sensor.
To be fair: ordered this unit complete thru pit stop USA this spring. Due to rona took little bit to run it. After over month time but only 4 racing nights (verifying I did everything right as well as moving sensor to different spots) with assurance from billet, deemed bad or wrong sensor. I contacted pit stop USA and spoke with them and explained issue and was asked to email them as well with issue. I explained all needed was sensor wasn't looking for anything more. Few weeks after email a complete new kit was arrived. I say this to tell how pleased with their support I was. It was over their return time but guess they understood and definitely made things right. In my opinion went above necessary. Hopefully this helps someone when price shopping items online to know support worth something.
Unfortunately those switches come in quite a few flavors(pressure settings) so it's very easy to end up with one that was mislabeled or packaged wrong especially in todays world where quality control is almost non existent
Well, this was real handy last week. The radiator cap is bad and the engine slowly lost it water. The pressure light came on the last lap but the gauge never left 210. At home, the radiator was only 1/3 full.
fuel pressure sensor, its perfect, 3-4 psi under that she lights up