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how about some off season conversation
I have a question to start it off
Topic>>>>Rear Wheel HP
what is the real world difference in the newer style transmissions?
has anyone done back to back testing on a chassis dyno to confirm a gain and the amount of gain when using the latest generation of transmissions compared to the older styles?
we know what the manufacturers claim but I am interested in what the general racing public has seen in private sessions.
Brad
www.race-1.com
250 people look at this post and no comments----I am confused---
how about light weight hubs---bearings--driveshafts----etc.
is there any racer info on the actual gain to the wheels?
Brad
www.race-1.com
i have went back to back on a chassis dyno with a reg bert and a gen 2 bert 0 hp gain on a 604 crate all this was within 1 hour back to back changing nothing but the transmission it is however 11 pounds lighter the orther stuff i have no knowledge with but couldnt possible hurt
We played with different hub brands/ rotors and weights this year. Along with different grease and bearings we were able to cut about 3.5lbs of weight going to a magnesium hub and scalloped rotor (1.25) vs a standard aluminum hub and normal rotor off each hub assembly. We even looked at the option of drilled .810 rotors but the weight was very similar to the 1.25.
No actual dyno results but I've never heard anyone say less rotating weight hurt them.
clayman2,
did you go back to the original transmission to verify #'s
we always try to do an "A" "B" "A" test when possible
was there any type of acceleration rate that was measurable on the equipment being used?
I would have expected to see a few digits of power and better acceleration from the low end of things
if you started recording information above 3000 RPM I could understand seeing very little of either
Brad
www.race-1.com
missile07,
I saw you mention the grease.-------I got my feet wet this past year in the karting world with my kids as drivers.
everybody I know had piles of advice for me and I was very thankful for every bit of it but one thing that I did very differently than my friends and competitors was how I lubricated my wheel bearings.
it seems to be standard practice in karting to shoot a little bit of "special" (very thin) lubricant in your wheel bearings every event.
an old fat guy like me with 2 kids in different divisions has very little time or breath to do much more than air in the tires and fuel in the tank
so I started using a motor oil in my wheel bearings during my weekly maintenance and not worrying about it during the race day.
I always thought that I was giving up a little speed until I noticed at the conclusion of a long event it seemed that several of our competitors were not rolling so well and I came to find that they were having bearing issues.
Our wheels still spun free as a bird.
moral of the story is ----just maybe all that super thin stuff does not perform well in the real world
just my opinion
Brad
www.race-1.com
We were at the PRI show last year and we were talking to a former UMP national champion while looking at Micro Armor grease. We walked away thinking it was "snake oil" and the champ says I use it in everything I got....he showed us his technique which basically blew us away. He uses less than half the amount of grease we were using....we tried it this year and it works. Normal bearings (no ceramic or polished bearings) with a light coat of grease spread on outside of bearing and a few squirts in the gaps. Clean off spindles and put a thin coat on them. We check them every other weekend or after a big show. No problems yet. The stuff was roughly $10-12 a tube and we haven't used much at all. Very slick to the touch.
This year we are going to try the polished bearings and see if theres a difference.
I know its probably been covered on here somewhere, but have any of you guys done any testing on a crankcase evac system? The standard header/valve cover type, not the pump. What type of problems, if any would I run into. I heard some good things and some bad.
Thanks
we always ran the evac system on our cars (the ones to the header) until they disallowed it on the crate engines. The only suggestion I would make. I would use aluminum or copper tubing instead of rubber hose. Just use a small amount of rubber hose to make the connection. In my experience after a few heat cycles the rubber hose may begin to collapse the aluminum or copper tubing will not.
missel07,
very interesting on the lube chosen and how it was applied
with you checking the condition and performance on a regular basis without ever finding a tight or worn bearing, I would have to agree it is good stuff
my point is that it's still a grease and not a super thin fluid like lubricant---
it must have some excellent bonding characteristics to stay in place
swingarm,
many sanctions do NOT permit any type of breather modification---check your rules before investing time and money
we have tested it and seen substantial gains on a 602 with worn out rings
engines with good ring seal have minimal gains
Brad
www.race-1.com