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Posting for a friend. Racing an s-10 in a stock truck class. Rules say engine must match make and model or truck, regardless of year. Trying to decide whether to go with the fuel injected 2.2 or 2.5 liter carbureted. I need to get a transmission also, so I don't have to worry about what will bolt up. What are your thoughts? Power, durability, etc...?
If you can maintain all the computer accessories,OS sensors,map,tps,etc the 2.2 should give you a more durable,effiecent power plant.You will need to keep the rpm's down and focus more on torque than high end power.
I'll add a few more details. All engine components must match factory specs. Only modifications allowed are up to .040 overbore, so guys can freshen the engines. So basically, which is the better engine with these rules. Whichever it is will be freshened though.
Usually size is most important.2.5 would be prefered over the 2.2. BUT it is extremely difficult in stock trim to get the performance from a carburetor that you can get from fuel injection.Especially at moderate rpm's.
if you intened to run the 2.5 above 6200 - 6400 RPMs get ready to buy some new motors. I ran the 2.5 in my S10 for three years (with mods allowed) and could not get one to live above 6500 consistently and this was with strapped mains, good rods, pistons, valve train, etc. IMHO in a pure stock class you'll be better off with a Toyota or Ford with the overhaed cams.
i have 2 car and we run 2.5 one engine we turn 72- 8 grand weekly the there 82- 9 grand u have to know how to put them together and use the right head
if you're running the old Iron Duke Chevy motor and turning it over 7000 and making it live, you're better than any engine builder in this area.
well does anybody need anything?
They could not even get the old Goody's dash cars to turn that much with the stock blocks. And when you say right head would you mean the the Monza style cross flow? We have some very good engine builders up here and the best of the best get 6500 to 6800. That is stock crank/block light weight aftermarket internals and a 10.5 compression rule with a no touch port rule. And even those let go from time to time. Problem seems to stem from very bad harmonics from the cam in block and push rods.
There are aftermarket blocks that can handle more but they use a V-8 head not a original or super duty head.
You can be competative with them but it takes work and you really need to be able to get the right gear ratio for every place you run to keep the rpm's down.
looks like someone had to make a new screen name just to post their BS (turning severe rpm's)
I got 1 season out of my 2.2 (almost) turning 6500 - 7000 rpms. And that was with no rebuild and 200,000 + miles on the engine. I admit, I need to get the rpms down a bit. It seems the 2.2 will get you more power but the 2.5 seems so simple. No sensors and a carb.
well come on down to north carolina and see how it runs. there is no bs here. it has all the best you can buy. the only real issue is the oiling system
chevyman- are you offering your services? Also, what is the correct head to run on the 2.5?Quote:
Originally Posted by 4cylchevyman
I want to appolagize, The KRP blocks will also accept the pontiac super duty and Fontana heads as well as the V-8 cup heads from yates etc.
@ ed norton- pm me you number.
if you can run a 2.3 ford in this class you will save money. The harmonics is the killer in 2.5 super duty motors. If you go with the super duty spend the monet on all the little details. Supur duty cranks, the pontiac super duty head [aluminum with the shaft rocker setup] s.d. Intake, isky makes the best cams for them [roller cams] an s-10 2.5 block will work but the 5 cam bearing s.d. Block is best. Small block chevy rods will work on them. I could go on but 6800 to 7200 rpm is the bad point on the harmonics. If you get this motor right you will not be out powered by another down the straights. Good luck!!!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by empiretrucks
I had one built by an engine builder in San Diego CA a few years ago based on an s10 block and an s10 cross flo head. Used Crower Rods on a specially prepared Stock crank, Trw Pistons .040, an Isky cam, solid flat tappet cam, 1.7 roller rockers and the block was prepped for a better oiling pattern, whichis a real weak spot on the 2.5, Oil wants to stay in the top too long. I spent almost 7 grand, back in 1997 which then was a lot. Raced it in Colorado and won a ton of races before I sold it and it won a bunch after that. I never turned it over 6800 and it was a rocket on the straights, and torque on the corners. used an efi intake with a 500 holley carb. It was fun to beat up on some of the fords and toyotas back then. However, I would not run one again simply because it costs too much and they are hard to keep together without a lot of work, compared to what I can build a 2.3 ford for. Too b ad, I really liked the sound and performance of my little monza. Good luck.
i guess ur trying to call someone out?? my name is the same and my game is the same !! still turning 8900 to 9600 and winning glad to know you remembered!!!!! :PQuote:
Originally Posted by car62
2.2 GM 94-up alumiunm pushrod head has awesome stock ports. Probably makes big HP with a cam and some compression but we have blown up a few bone stock bottom ends racing so we never dared to try.
I think if you changed out most of the bottom end with high dollar parts it would (as the does the 2.5 GM) make a hot little motor.Maybe a dominating one but at what cost?This is MINI STOCK racing for crying out loud.
We race radical cammed up 11:1 heads on BONE stock 2.5 Ford bottom ends with huge miles and they don't break.Multiple seasons/multiple trucks.When we first started racing pickups we and our competitors ran stock 2.2 and 2.5 GM without cams or milled heads and the bottom ends only lasted a handful of races at best.
2.2/2.5 GM most probably WON'T stay together racing,2.3/2.5 Ford most probably WILL stay together.HUGE difference.
And all this is from a GM lover. Only an idiot remains blinded in light of hard facts and shared experience of those that have been there and tried.
yes the oil does stay up top. The later pontiac super duty heads were channeled to get the oil to drain lines running back to the pan. The super duty cranks is the wy to go intake also. But awesome tor and power. The sound of the fine tuned ones are unmistakable. Ive had good succes with these motors, but at a high price tag. I run crate now in n.c. And it's much cheaper and even pays to be there,, before i paid to be there.Quote:
Originally Posted by dannyracer6