On asphalt, will a car with the above upgrades have a significant advantage over a car without these. If so, what would be the advantages? I'm trying to educate myself on this subject. Thanks guys!
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On asphalt, will a car with the above upgrades have a significant advantage over a car without these. If so, what would be the advantages? I'm trying to educate myself on this subject. Thanks guys!
A 3-link rear system with a panhard bar allows a wide range of adjustability regarding rear moment center for traction & control of rear/front roll. Which is valuable for helping to overcome 'tight' & 'loose' conditions. If you don't have the book, I HIGHLY suggest Bob Bolles 'Stock Car Setup Secrets'. ISBN 1-55788-401-3 . He covers your subject of interest extremely thoroughly. As well as the front end aspects also. Some of the best $$$ you'll ever spend on your race car! -84Dave-
Thanks Dave. Myrtle beach has adopted mayhem rules for theie ministock race with allows this setup. We will be running stock rearend. So no chance for us
you can run a stock rearend and still use 3 link with panhard
Its a great setup that you can adapt to a stock rearend. I run a three link and a panhard on an 8.8 Ford. I created an attachment that utilizes the existing bushing ears, offset the three link a few inches to the passenger's side. The front attaches through the interior of the car to a point on the rollcage. The panhard is an off the shelf MM unit.
im curious...if you dont mind can you send some pictures to chaney2333@roadrunner.comQuote:
Originally Posted by horsewidower
Curious. I remember a few years ago some guys running on asphalt had the RR link nearly twice as long as the LR link. I think it was mainly to reduce or eliminate the amount of roll steer that would occur as the car rolled through the turn.Is anyone still doing this?
I'll see if I can find some of my photos, its been a while since I've been on here. Are we still allowed to post photos?
Bob
RaceMan....... yes indeed, the lengths of all links of a 3-link system matter. The longer the lower links, the better. Keeping in mind that through a corner, when the right side rolls downward, the vertical length of that travel is ~2x the upward vertical travel of the left side. So, in terms of roll-steer, the longer the right lower link, the better. Bolles covers that aspect well in the book I referenced above. A couple of other important matters. The contact patch of the RR should follow in-line with the patch of the RF as nearly as practical..... adjustment Rules permitting. Checking/adjusting bump-steer in the front geometry? Most make the mistake of checking/adjusting that geometry with the front tires pointing straight ahead. Wrong! That correction should be checked/made with the front tires steered to the left, the same ~amount as would be steered left at most short-track oval's. It's all those 'little' items that can make a serious difference in the chassis/handling abilities of the race car. -84Dave-
Thanks, Dave. Good info.Quote:
Originally Posted by 84Dave
Third link, front attachment:
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...s/P1000784.jpg
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...c/P1020207.jpg
Still looking for the upper link axle mount.