Scat F43 vs Callies Compstar

Buying a new crank and I have always run scat. But the builder is recommending a callies compstar comet.

3.75 stroke SBC

Opinions on what way to go?

Scat often gets a rap as being a low bucker's crank and for being off shore forged but the Compstar is also off shore forged. I've had a few forged Scats and been very happy with all of them. Freshened one engine over last season with a Scat that had 40+ races in that engine and that I had used in two previous engines, a total of over 100 races.

Got a Compstar 36# crank in the engine I just finished and it looks to be a very nice piece. Bought it at the end of last season closeout from a supplier for 'bout $150 less than an F43 and it's 7# lighter. Don't think you can go wrong with either one. For me, it came down to the bucks.

your right about the bad rap deal , scat makes as good of a billet crank as any one , but it aint cheap either , we had bad luck with one of there cast cranks when they first started offering v8 cranks , but it was not the cranks fault , we were asking to much out of a cast crank , never had a problem with there forged stuff , of coarse we have not had a problem with the eagle forged cranks either , like over40t said , a lot of times , it boils down to cost.....BTW , K1 has some good deals on rotating assembly,s right now.......

I've stayed away from the Eagle stuff 'cause two different machinists that I respect told me the tolerances were all over the place and that they often were a bear to balance, mostly due to counterweight placements. The guy I still use told me recently that Eagle has greatly improved them over the last few years and he now doesn't hate them. They sell a bunch of them so...

Bought a basic chassis last season and for an extra grand the guy threw in a 358 that, he said, had 18 nights on it, never over 6,800 and never hot. Ran it once to see how it was before we were going to pull it,last to 2nd in our heat (8 laps) and 9th to 3rd in 7 laps in the main and the crank broke.

Had a Scat cast crank, cheapo forged pistons and cheap rods. We ran it geared to limit to 6,600 and broke the crank in half, destroyed the block, 3 rods, pistons, cam. I NEVER buy used engines but bought this one for the heads (Dart Platinum), intake (Victor Jr.) a killer 650 2 barrel carb, Brinn bellhousing, pumps, pullies, etc. and they were all saveable. I came out fine but one other similar experience with Scat cast many years ago soured me on them.

Thirty years ago when I was broke I ran many GM cast cranks in 12-13 to 1 engines, kept them under 7 grand and never broke a one. Got a couple friends that have used and were happy with the K1 stuff.

no cast crank can stand the recoil a late model goes through for long , that on and off the gas with no fly wheel weight will eventually break that cast crank , believe me , ive proved it , i helped a limited asphalt late model one time years ago that had to run a stock 400 crank , or at least he chose the 400 over the 350 , finally learned after so many races to swap it out , seems like it was 10 races but its been a while.....

Broke a scat cheapy $150 crank few years ago. Not sure how old crank was cause wasn't my motor but going into 1 off throttle and when went back to throttle she snapped. 2 barrel leaf spring dirt car.

Engine guy tells me the callies dragon slayer is realllyyyy nice piece for money. USA made and will handle big hp

It's usually the blocks that cause the cranks to break. Stock blocks mostly, they flex the main webbings and cause the cranks journals to get out of line. Hence why most aftermarket blocks have solid pan rails to stiffen things up. The better material cranks can withstand the extra twist or misalignment better. Cast units are usually more brittle. Also why main studs will help a weak crank hang on just a little longer by more clamping force and stiffing up the lower half of the block

with the lower cost of forged cranks these days , it is not worth the risk of using a cast crank , period....JMO....