Has anyone ran atf +4 senthetic in there first gen Bert? I normally run atf type f but ended up with 5 quarts of the plus 4 is it ok to switch if all it’s ever had was the type f ran threw it?
Printable View
Has anyone ran atf +4 senthetic in there first gen Bert? I normally run atf type f but ended up with 5 quarts of the plus 4 is it ok to switch if all it’s ever had was the type f ran threw it?
Type F has a friction modifier that helps the clutches live... that +4 stuff does not.
Type F was developed for the first Ford automatic transmissions in the early 50's. They used a different clutch material than GM or Mopar. Use the regular stuff and the trans will slip in just a few miles.
Good to know, thanks
I just use bert blue. Expensive but I'd rather run their stuff.
been running type f trans fluid for 20 years with no problem , now i do use honda civic clutches in mine and have often wandered if using the recommended honda fluid might be better , but never tried it because of cost , and because of no filter system in the trans , you have to change it regular anyway so i just stick with what works , JMO........
why honda clutches?
98 cents each for clutches and steels , kit from bert , 100 bucks , when your on the budget i am , you learn to save every $ .......just in case any one wants to know , 1982 honda civic automatic..............
will those work in a brinn?
Curt Drake
Late Model #55x
following..
Been a few years, but my brinn came with all fiber disks. Lasted my rookie season, was sketchy at the end.Quote:
Originally Posted by Drake Racing
Was recomended to use 2 fiber rest metalic.
Went all metallic. Worked great, positive feel, little wear.
Ran until rule/class change disallowed trans use.
Ran 20w50 valvoline, changed when engine oil was changed. Imo 1 qt, no matter the cost, is cheap insurance.
No clue if the civic clutches will work in a brinn. I'd be concerned if they are metallic, or fiber.
Btw, if all discs are metallic, fluid you use is much less critical.
I learned, also, matching rpm to ground speed, when downshifting, helps life tremendously.
never ran a brinn so dont know , but the last sentence 95shaw posted is probably one of the most important things of all to any internal clutch life......
An added point to that is that you are far better off having your RPMs too high for the downshift than too low, so I intentionally rev past what I think is good to make sure of that. If you engage the clutch with the RPMs too low for your ground speed, you are literally rubbing the discs the wrong way.
Another example of where you can save some dollars on transmission parts is the rear seal and bushing. It is the exact same two parts for a turbo350 tranny and half the cost on Summit as it is from Bert. But maybe everybody already knew that...
Any advice on rebuilding a original ball spline section? It doesn’t even have the greaseable seal.
Since we are talking about fluids for a bert transmission, what is reccommend for the clutch resevare that goes to the transmission. The only thing I have been able to find was a tech article on pitstopusa.com that said conventional brake fluid but it didnt give a DOT or anything. Can that Castrol React Brake fluid be used.
Bert told me any ATF is fine the most important part is to keep it changed regularly.
im sure it can , but considering there isnt much heat build up , ole cheap dot five is all we ever use.....Quote:
Originally Posted by strong08