How are people sealing up the timing covers of the new seal 604's. I know the factory knew about the problem and moved the seal bolts. First run on the motor and it's already leaking. Just carb clean and caulk up with rtv?
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How are people sealing up the timing covers of the new seal 604's. I know the factory knew about the problem and moved the seal bolts. First run on the motor and it's already leaking. Just carb clean and caulk up with rtv?
originally GM was going to pay engine builders to replace the timing cover and install whatever appropriate sanction seal the customer needed
We (Race-1) have way too many of these out there for that to be are first choice of repair
We have a procedure for repair that we have been using that I am very confident will last as long as the engine
give me a call and I will share it with you on the phone.
I will try to put it into words and post it here sometime in the future but it really is easier to instruct over the phone.
Brad Hibbard
www.race-1.com
330-540-7223
PS: this is only engines with the new cup style seal and with it in the top positions of the timing cover
below is a description of how we make the repair
NOTE----any engine purchased from Race-1 with this problem will be fixed by us at NO Charge
hope this helps
Brad
www.race-1.com
604 built from November of 2017 to February of 2018
With the new style GM cup seals in the 12 o’clock (top position) of the timing cover.
These engines commonly have a crack in the timing cover do to improper bolt size.
Race-1 Recommended repair method:
Tools and Supplies Needed:
• Shop Vac
• Vacuum Gauge
• Heat Gun/ Hair Dryer
• Non Residue Cleaner-(brake clean or similar) -----------(NOT Carb cleaner)
• Silicone Sealer -We use the “Right Stuff” by Permatex
Process:
• Remove the water pump
• Install shop vac on 1 valve cover breather tube
• Install vacuum gauge on other breather tube
• With all components still in place (fuel pump, distributor, oil filter, oil press. gauge) there should be 5 to 6 inches of vacuum in the crank case
• WARM the repair area with a heat gun or hair dryer. (NOTE) in the warming process do not over heat—heat guns become very hot in a concentrated area and can damage the cover beyond repair—hair dryers are safe
• With shop vac running and repair area warm begin cleaning the repair area---multiple cleaning attempts will help to insure success with the repair
• Let the area completely dry----heat and shop vac will speed this step
• With shop vac still running ----warm the repair area again---place a good amount of silicone on cardboard and warm it also
• With the repair area clean and warm---the silicone warm—shop vac still running--- push silicone into the repair area
• Leave the shop vac run for approximately 5 minutes
• Clean excess sealer from around seals
• ***LET IT CURE FOR 24 HOURS***
I have one from December of 17 i have ran it two races so far and havent noticed a leak. How bad is the leak? Am I not looking good enough?
younggun,
your engine is certainly one of suspicion
they do not all leak but most will at some point
any oil on the front of the engine is an indication of a problem
remember this---if oil can get out then dirt can get in
plus its just plain messy----fix it at first sign
Brad
www.race-1.com
This procedure worked out great for me! Thanks again Brad