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604 Straight outta the box, new Jones 3 blade 17” plastic fan, new radiator, New KRC 1:1 Serp pulleys, new shroud, 16AN upper hose with out a restrictor, timing set on 34 degrees with a new MSD distributor, using Maxima Oil, NGK plus, and VP 110 gas and still cant get but about 7-8 laps out of it before it shoots to 230-240 degrees. Took the plugs out, and they all appear to be good, not too rich or too lean. Any recommendations would be appreciated
I have never been a fan of an AN line for a radiator hose. AN 16 has an ID of 1.00" where a typical hose used is 1.5", then add in that likely the ID of one of the fitting is likely even smaller or any of the screw in fittings used on radiator or water neck. Check to see if you have even more restriction then the 1.00 ID of the 16 hose and I would bet you do.
I don't even like the AN 20 size for an upper hose, but don't really have any data so say it doesn't work
PS: Grab fan and try to turn it with your hand and make sure the belt isn't slipping.
I think bird cage hit it with his last post but call me tomorrow and we can review your entire program
Brad
www.race-1.com
330-540-RACE
I have pretty much the same parts you've mentioned. I have a 16AN dual pass radiator and a shroud that has about half of the fan in it. I run the Race Fan but use the three blade 19". I know guys with 17" fans that have had issues. I don't care for the serpentine stuff as you have to get the belt so tight to keep it from slipping that it has to be robbing power. I like the HTD stuff and a tandem pump for fuel and power steering off the bell housing. The only time we have an issue where car wants to get around 230 is on a big 1/2 mile track we run when it goes green for 10-15 laps straight.
Who sold you a 1:1 serpentine setup? Serpentine belts slip, use an HTD. Verify TDC or just pull out 4*total timing at 3-4K RPM and retest run. New rad may need a through all cleaning depending on screening in front, they all need cleaned correctly every week.
throw the 3 blade jones in trash,
get a 4 blade GM or a race blade 3-4 blade setup
does your serpentine system have the idler tensioner wheel on it?
what water pump do you have on it?
Stewert stage 2-3 is best I have found
Wouldn't the smaller upper hose add speed but not volume to the moving water? which it kind of what the restrictor does to a point. Or are you all not even running a restrictor in crate engines?
Thanks for the replies.Chief- I bought the KRC crank to water pump system which i thought was a 1:1 but now looking back at their website its 30% reductionJustaddDirt- Ive had several people tell me that Jones Fan is junk, so it is now Junked lol. I’m replacing the water pump now, its a KRC pump (which I have since learned they are all made by Stewart with different logos) and I’m gonna run my steel GM fan. I’d rather give up a few lbs with a heavier fan and run cooler. If this fixes it, then gonna look into the 4 blade Race Fan
If you have either the yellow Jones all billet fan or the yellow fan with the riveted blades, definitely get rid of it. They had trouble with both. The new Jones 3 blade is made by Race Fan. The 19" works good. It is the same fan but doesn't have any extra holes to make it 4 , 5 or 6 blade. It is a 3 blade only. If it were me, I'd get the lighter fan if possible. The heavy steel fan will cause the serpentine belt to slip.
If I was to go crate racing, I would definitely go with e85. Temps run cooler,
Little more snappy on power. I know it’s a bit more work with testing fuel, and all, but it beats Worrying about overheating, and cost a boatload less than the oxygenated fuels. Just my two cents
Most crate sanctions don't allow E85, as far as I know. Methanol would be my fuel of choice if on open fuel crate rules.
Most crate LM sanctions allow E-85 but not methanol. The GM 4 blade fan is hard to beat for cooling.
did you call Brad he's one of the best in the business. He could probably save you alot of trial and error. Just sayin...