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I 've spent all winter building a engine got it all done primed ready to go,after getting it in the car and letting it build up temp to seat rings it starts smoking,so I shut it off and try again the next night same results,my guess was it was sucking oil after it heated up so I changed intake gasket to rule it out, no change still smokes at idle and under throttle once it starts building up heat, any suggestions ???
Paint finally curing on the motor and headers
It may just be trying to burn off the condensation from sitting. What color is the smoke and what does it smell like?
Pull valve covers and check all valve seals, look for any out of place or torn up. that'd be the easiest and first thing id check..
you don't have enough info to really find whats wrong .heres a list of things to check .ring gap,intake bottoming out on ends or machined wrong , crack in piston ,oil returns pluged,crack in intake or intake runners,screw in studs with no sealant,valve guides ,seals, like I said to many possible things
Thanks Guys, smoke is bluish color and a raw oil smell,heads are new and seals do look good after double checking,intake matches good and seals(I even changed gaskets yesterday to be safe),heads are new and all stud holes have sealer on them,looks like im pulling her out today hopefully find the problem soon,Thanks again
Here are a couple things i seen happen over the years. Metal clad valve stem seals will pull oil between the guide and the seal that caused a haze at idle but wasnt a problem racing. Look and see if the intake valves are oilly on the port side. Most second rings are a reverse twist ring, they scrap oil off the cylinder on the down stroke. If installed upside down they push oil to the top, should be a chamfer or dot on the ring to tell which way it goes on. Chamfer down or dot up
Pull the spark plugs and see if any , or all are oil fouled . Do a compression check . Do a cylinder leak down test . If one spark plug only is oil fouled look at that cylinder . If all the spark plugs are oil fouled take your time and look good and hard , dont get in a hurry . Take your time and think about it . If oil is in the bottom of the intake runner . Intake gasket . If the intake and exhaust valves have oil on them . Valve seals . Also check and see if the are low tension rings . Have had some you would swear it had no rings in it at idle or under caution . Mash the gas and r.p,m.and cylinder pressure went up and smoke went away .
what did you use for assembly lube and i'm asuming your using break in oil used 20-50 with a new motor once ring took awhile to seat, also where the headers on a engine last that was fogged. check the obvious first, then follow as hatchet said.
I would have done a leak down before anything else.
Also, I've seen oil pulled through the threads on the intake manifold and the rocker studs. valve guides, PCV, fuel pump as well as listed above.
sounds like upside down rings to me. Ive done that once myself 15-18 years ago.
Thanks guys for all the comments I have checked and rechecked every single thing suggested motor is coming back out and looks like im going in DEEP i'll post what I find in a few days,thanks again
ok il admit what i did once, the piston s i used had a extra spacer ring on the oil ring, got the pistons back from machine shop and i thought they didn't take all the old ones off, I took them off, put motor together with new rings. Next day called the motor guy for something and told him they left the old ring on, He said the motor will smoked without that extra spacer ring, So told the next day off and tore motor apart and put them back in. Srp pistons.
What oil are you using to run it on break in?
Conventional oil, or a synthetic?
did you put a thin _THIN_ smear of sealant around intake ports on both sides of the intake gaskets?
2 of the 3 engine builders I have used in 20+ years do not put on exhaust valve seals. motors would have a slight haze at idle, but nothing while on throttle.
Thanks guys for all the input,problem has been found after several years of building my own stuff it was a first,i always check clearances and use plastigauge also ring gaps are always checked and filed if nessecary but ive never checked the oil expander ring turns out this time it was for a standard bore and I built a 030 the expander had 032 gape and no resistance on it, and I still hate the total seal rings!!!!
glad you found it.
racer21, I don't know why you hate total seal, ive been using them for years and consider them to be the best, jmo...
Just my opinion but I don't care for some of total seals rings either. I would much rather prefer Speed Pro or Perfect Circle/Mahle as these rings are pre lapped. Next time you get a total seal classic race ring take either the top or second compression ring and run it against your lip and it will have a rough finish meaning the ring will have to wear into the cylinder which is why total seal says not to finish your cylinders any smoother than with a 400 grit stone. If you do the same with the other brands they will be smooth and for racing those companies recommend as slick of a cylinder wall as you can get without burnishing it. This is just my opinion.
this may be true about the roughness of the ring, I do my final hone with 400, but I also use the green seat accelerator total seal has that you wipe on the cylinders just before you install the pistons. this makes a world of difference, I also like perfect circle, but don't care much for speed pro in racing enginesQuote:
Originally Posted by dereksehi