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It's been a while, but I remember it being 200 feet, not counting the frame rails.

They have made a bar that promotes roll. It is "Z" shaped and was used on formula VEE cars. I have often thought of using on diagonally on the RF/LR.

Zero 25, you are talking about ground tubing. I saw a mod built by Beakbuilt. It was beautiful.

Why not just not claim all of your expenses one year out of every 3. That way you show a profit.

Generally iron block engines need to be raised up because of a lower center of gravity.

I have never seen one and can't find any pictures. Post a pic for us.

Slow the pump down. You do not want to spin the pump too fast, and then bypass lots of extra oil volume to control pressure.

If they were the 2 7/8" bearing type I think you can swap the hubs. But with the standard wide 5 I don't think so. If you are going to machine some adapters, just make them to bolt to the drive...

If I wanted the answer to this question, the person I would ask is Perfconn, so now, I don't know what to do.

Kent, I have been thinking about a position sensitive shock for the left rear front shock for some time. I built one years ago for a different application, but now I think you could have it with...

I believe he means brace bar. The one that runs side to side below and forward of the fuel cell.
As for the other one I can't figure out what he means by drivers screen.

Good to know. I would have replied, but the only DMI I have ever owned is brand new, so I had no idea. Not surprised though, since so many QC parts interchange.

Yeah, what he said. This has been a problem for 40 years. People think the purples go together, and the thing will run fine at low RPM, but, if I recall, will retarded at high rpm. Never understood...

Buy the high flow thermostat. Afco, stant, Mr gasket all make them. I drill 3 small 1/16" holes evenly spaced around the body. This helps it purge air and avoid temp spikes. I usually run it all...

There are actually a few bars in the back that are different between the cars but not in all years, however they are nearly the same. Yes lots of cars get clipped with the opposite clip.

If it has more than one season on it, it needs new rack housing bushings. Free play is not adjustable.

An old timer that built cars about here also used tin snips on thin stuff, and I don't think he was using stuff thinner than .065.

If you are talking about the Piston cup for the slave cylinder, I always just use one from the local auto parts house. I think it is 1-3/8". I know it will be way smaller than the one that came out.

I get what he is saying. When you say 2 inches offset, keep in mind the difference between offset and spit. A 2 inch offset center has 4 inches of difference between the axle tube lengths. I assume...

When I went to a faster ratio and the lightest torsion bar it felt darty for the heat race and maybe a few laps of the main, but after that it has been great. I run the 4.19 rack and lightest servo.

Remove it following the instructions from the
site. Measure the diameter of the bar in the middle where it is smallest.

Does it have the Woodward servo? If it does, you just change the torsion bar to a thicker one. Instructions are on Woodward's site. If it has a sweet servo, you have to send the servo to sweet to do...

This makes it displacement dependant? So the last bit of rebound travel has more dampening?

It depends on why you are running the scoop and how much cooling you need.

Heads up? I see what you did there.