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Type: Posts; User: ThrowInDirt
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Looking to build another car
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Hi-Temp silicone is what I use and have'nt had any problems with it
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I scale without...always have....some will say that its wrong and some will say its right...but it works for me
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I used to buy them from speedway..But I went to Harbor Freight for something and found some disks that looked almost identical to the speedway ones...I bought 3 of them for like 15$..lol alot less...
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This is just a starting point...The pan hard bar...the pinion side should be 8 inch's above ground and the chassis side 10 inch's above..that'll give you a 10 inch roll center and should be 10...
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I dont know what you all run, But I run a modified so a limiting factor for them is the 8" wide tire. If I were running a late model or sprint car then yeah I would be trying to get the very most out...
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I've never have had a Engine on a dyno before. I never felt the need too put it on a dyno. I build all my own engine's and dont have any have any problems with horsepower. This last season I ran down...
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There both the same besides the burst pressure is different between the two...51060 is 270 psi and 51061 is 285 psi
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There both the same besides the burst pressure is different between the two...51060 is 270 psi and 51061 is 285 psi
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dont know about Advanced.. I just started using intregra's last year and I like them.. everytime I've called them or left a e-mail they've always respond quik with answers
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raise it for less body roll or lower it for more body roll
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I just used some round stock and welded a nut on one and slid the net through and weld the other nut on. Than I just welded right to the top of the roll bar
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I just bought a mod thats 3-link, Right now the LR has coil over behind the axle and RR has the coil on top of rearend. Should I leave it like this or should I put the springs on sliders.
Also...
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