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Type: Posts; User: fast_crew
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A good RaceSaver 305 will turn around 75-7,600rpm.
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More duration, more lobe separation, installed slightly retarded. Crank the rpms up.
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That's alot of cam, and will more than likely be lazy on restarts and up off the corner. With that long of duration and duration split you'll be blowing your cylinder pressure right out the exhaust....
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I'd try adjusting the throttle ratio and linkage so that the throttle pedal travel remains the same but the carb only opens say 1/2--3/4 of the way, what ever you feel is enough. This works...
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Open right and closed left should provide the most down/side force.
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Anyone have any experience with micro blue coating, or RF85 treatment??
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If big track I'd figure gear to run about 7,200. Small track gear it to get up off corner, 7,400 or so.
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You can buy a decent roller for around $6000, a used engine for around $10,000. A 360 could be used in the USAC wingless sprints and be competitive on most tracks.
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Call Lias Tire in Indiana PA and ask for Dustin, he should be able to assist you.
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Doesn't really matter as long as you aren't bottoming out the spring, and can achieve proper ride heights. A taller spring has more distance between the coils and allows more travel before coil...
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What if the holes are meant to let air in, and while passing through the nose and out of the fender well a vacuum effect is created, pulling out more air than what passed through the holes to begin...
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The RR and LR are slipping together. Solid axle, car is in yaw, if one is slipping both are slipping. What you see is heat, which is result of friction caused by load. Quick lesson, rub your hands...
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Going from -4 to -3 hoses will give slightly better pedal feel ( less expansion, less pedal travel) going from -3 to -2 is really not noticeable.
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A 2 piece intake with a plate can not suck oil in to the ports. Is this blue smoke or more like white steam that dissipates in the air?? Fill radiator pump up a few times, pull the plugs and crank...
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I'd swap the cam and give it a try and see how it runs. Stuff some gear to it and let ER eat. Get with Dayton Umholtz at KP carbs or Jet and get a carb worked over. Give Mike Jones at Jones Cam...
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It's pretty simple, a 200lb spring with 600lbs on it is compressed about 3". A 100lb spring with that same 600lb load is compressed 6"... If LR hikes up 4".... well you get the idea.
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A single piston master will not give a good pedal travel, not enough fluid displacement to take up the caliper piston retraction. The 1-1/16 tandem should've given a good firm pedal if everything is...
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Another thing you can do, is adjust linkage and hole positions, so that pedal travel/height remains comfortable, but limit the amount that the throttle actually opens. On a slick track you'd be...
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I have modified my own center links over the years, position the inner tie rods near the lower a arm bolt and you'll be really close to zero bump.
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Cut the intake flange on the head itself
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Methanol is definitely a safer fuel. Harder to ignite, less volatile, and can be extinguished with water/foam fairly easy.
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Zero deck height and .015 head gasket.??.. something doesn't jive here...pistons are sure to hit the heads. Much tighter than .035 and they will hit.
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Besides less fuel burn off, I feel there is no gain with gas over alcohol. Alcohol will make more torque if cammed correctly, no cooling issues, and good bit safer from a fire stand point.
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I'd reduce caster split to 1.5-2*. Verify LF brake or wheel brg isn't dragging. Rear square shouldn't make wheel pull one way or another.
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What does right side tracking look like?? RR out past RF?? Push RF out tuck RR in. Soften RR spring Abit.
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