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Do D port and oval port heads both have the little round "slug" in the casting on the floor of the intake runner?

Do D port and oval port heads both have the little round "slug" in the casting on the floor of the intake runner?

Thanks for all the replies. My reason for asking is this. I am trying to get down to 0 bite, but, to get that low my LR ride height is about 1/2 in too low. I was thinking of using a lighter spring...

If the LR spring is basically out of play when the car is up on the bars, then what part does LR bite play? Or LR spring rate for that matter?

My 605 has flare also

We aren't talking about moving weight. We are talking about static weight.

http://www.wcnc.com/sports/Sheriff-Racing-legend-dies-of-self-inflicted-gunshot-wound-207764301.html

Fill it with fuel and start hanging weight on the RR

The only way to add rear % is to physically add weight to the car

A friend asked this and I didn't know the answer. If he only replaced the RF on a metric with Nova parts and left the metric on the left how would the car react? I told him, not only would it stick...

I had to shave some off the outer pad because the pad was too thick.

The nova's are rear steer. Thats why when you use nova lowers you swap sides right on left, left on right.

Thanks guys, I think I found the problem. The brackets were tweeked just enough to cause the outer pad to drag against the rotor. I bent them back just a little and shaved some material off the outer...

I am pretty sure this is the one Shaw was using in 09


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v332/klv8lm/IMG_0069_zps051385e1.jpg

I have brand new calipers on the front and both front brakes are dragging causing the car to push. I have checked for pinched lines and nothing seems bent or crooked on the spindles or caliper...

It's not a simple swap though. First off you have to remember they are backwards, right on left and left on right. This will lengthen your wheelbase also. At minimum you will need to relocate your...

jack it up so the tires are off the ground. Without the car running turn it lock to lock, if the problem is still there, it isn't in the pump or lines. If it isn't then you know it is in the pump or...

I think the newer ones are turned down ahead of the splines. I have an older Brinn and had the same problem. I took the tail shaft out and took it to a machine shop and had it turned down

You need a limiter chain on the rear to not let it bottom out. You also don't want your LR upper bar to go past 45*

Make sure there is no air in the lines. While it is running, crack the lines loose at the box and turn it.

If you are using VR1 be sure to add a zinc additive. VR1 changed it's formula a few years back and it has very little zinc.

Every engine I ever had had that same oil pressure problem, except this one I have now. I have had it for 4 years and freshened it every year. It runs 60 pounds after a race constantly.

If it is dumping raw fuel into the cylinder, it will get down into the oil.