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Type: Posts; User: hunterracing
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Yea that’s over my head there
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So then with that. Maybe the stiffer spring but lower starting ride height would be best then but still end up at same load at the 4 inch mark
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Would you benefit more say taken the 350 outa rf and putting like a 475 500 in there but lowering the ride height but still ending up with same load number at 3.5 to 4 inches travel or does the...
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Where’s the lock out nut at top or bottom or none
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I could do a 90/100 that be a 47lb rate overall and do maybe a 8 top 10 bottom if it would have enough threads
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Can you run a shorter bottom spring to compensate for the shock body not being threaded all way or would you just need to run softer springs overall. Or would it just be easier to do soft single...
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I was thinking 90 over 125 or 150 175 but if you can’t get that soft could you benift just as much with a 50lb single spring
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Is there a way to get a digressive stack on the ohlins piggy back we’re the threads isn’t all the way down the body? Like do a 6 inch or shorter too spring and do soft too and bottom springs
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Would this work same for cars that are on single spring rule and can’t run bumps stacks or any of that as well
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never ending learning lol. Does it matter if there toe out the left side to begin with before you move the cage
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No I just left them the same placemat or spacers on cage and frame
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I’m still confused on that when I move the cage out the rearend goes fwd when I slide it in it goes back hooked up to the bars
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Is there anything to gain moving the cage closer to will or in more. Beside fact of moving it out making more steer versus in more if that’s correct. Would moving closer to tire make it work lr...
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Ok thanks. Just trying understand it all and it adjust to many things at once
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So if it’s tight in then you need bump the 3inch up to more load help turn in and if it’s loose take it away
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How do you know when you have to much or not enough rf load? We’re on a 200lb spring 2 blue coil rubbers and blue bump
3inch is 1450 4 inch 2100 to 2200
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Is there any thing to be gained by putting a longer rf lower a frame on besides just tighten car up
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Guess that explains while in rubber car hiked and moved fine but on super back slick it wouldn’t hike up and if it tried it was very late exit if that guess 19inches was to long lol
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Anyone with any insight on this?
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When doin the ls bars parallel die having them to far apart on cage say 5.5 up and 5.5 down on lower with long bars take away the thrust factor and keep it from hiking and taken drive outa car
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How the heck do you mount the torsion on the frame
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I’m still trying wrap my head around the last comment lol
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Also would it benift by moving the upper mount down some to increase roll with stiffer spring without having to do it by lead
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Could you run a little bit stiffer rate spring by moving it in to get drive back since can’t run bumps or stacks
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