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Could be starter dragging when it gets hot or a timing issue or fuel leakage from carb or both. JMO

Make sure your distributor has the right gear on it as the crate has a roller cam, if you didn't know that. JMO.

Air pressure might be too low. JMO

Agree with Dirtracr 33. Also make sure you have 0 deg indexing on the RR birdcage. JMO

Like i said, raise RRL two holes check indexing on both sides, o deg on both. If that doesn't do it lower j bar on frame an inch and raise an inch on pinion. Have a buddy that was fighting the same...

Might try raising RRL a couple of holes. If that doesn't work i would definitely check overall setup and call the chassis builder. JMO

I either raise RRL bar one hole or raise j bar on pinion one hole. Try one at a time to see which one you like best. Maybe try changing how you enter corner. JMO.

I've run biscuit, progressive spring and fixed rate spring pull bars and couldn't tell any difference in the three types. If your entry and exit are where they need to be any pull bar will work fine....

Since I replaced my stub the car turns into the corners much easier. We turned it 3/4 of an inch. JMO.

Call Kevin Shaw just to be sure. 870-251-2966 JMO

Might also think about plugging the bypass valve on your oil filter adapter if it isn't already plugged. JMO

Maybe check wheelbase to Pierce specs as someone could have moved rear end forward.JMO

I run 30 or more races before i even think about looking at my motor and the bearings look great. As derekshei and powerslide said, i would be looking at air cleaner real hard. JMO

I bought one from Shaw in 2015 that was already assembled and paid 950 dollars plus 100$ shipping to the Duel in the desert in Vegas. A friend was there and brought in back to northern Nevada for me....

Brad Penn. JMO

Oh yea, I forgot to add that. LOL . JMO

On a really dry slick track it gives you way more drive from the center off. I found that you have to loosen car up a little and get used to backing out of the throttle very slowly and only part way...

I agree. JMO.

I never measured from the grease zerk as I didn't know if the stub was turned or bent so I measured from the mid plate. I put on a new front clip last January as I knew mine was bent.You have to...

Take out stagger, square rear end and add about 20- 30 lbs LR bite. Only do one thing at a time. From what you are saying, I would start with squaring rear end first. JMO.

Do either one, but use a 40 grit disc with a firm backing plate. I use a variable speed grinder set at 1000-1200 rpm. You don't want to remove a lot of rubber, just open up the surface of the tire...

On new tires i first wipe off the mold release with lacquer thinner then i sand off the nubs with a 40 grit sanding disc. I then sipe straight across rear tires and from 8 oclock to 2 oclock looking...

Sorry for the half a s s e d response. Just saying i don't get any more travel with a progressive spring than you do with a 1200 lb spring. I've ran a 1050 spring with 5/8 in preload and a biscuit...

No offense, but how good are you on throttle control. JMO

I run a 1200-2000 with 3/8 preload and get about the same travel as you're getting.JMO.