2007 Harris On 3 Link,no Forward Bite. Need Help




















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  1. #1

    Unhappy 2007 Harris On 3 Link,no Forward Bite. Need Help

    I Have A 2007 Harris With 3 Link Set-up. The Car Has No Drive Off The Corners. Here Is The Set-up I Have In The Car.

    Left Front Spring And Shock 600lbs & 40/40 Shock Bilstein

    Right Front-650lbs & 60/20

    Left Rear- 225lbs & 40/40

    Right Rear- 175lbs & 30/30

    I Have A 1050 Lbs Pull Bar Spring With The Pull Bar Being Almost As Far To The Left I Can Go About 1" Left. I Have 56.8% Rear With 52% Left Side And 70lbs Of Bite In Car.i Have The Left Side Bar In The 6th Hole Up And The Right 4th Hole Up. J-bar 7" Up On Frame Side And Just Below The Center Of The Pinon On The Rear End. About 5" Of Rake. I Have Tried More Wedge And Softer Springs And Moving Pull Bar Side To Side And Up And Down. Car Gets In Corner And Threw The Middle Good Just No Drive Off. Need Help Bad,anything. Thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    164

    Default harris 3 link

    try a softer spring in pull bar with angle maybe...and do u know the actual angles of the bars? i run about 15deg on lr and about 0-5deg on rr. the pull bar has a 600lb spring with about 15deg downhill. my panhard bar is exactly like yours. 175 spring on lr and 150 on rr. bob pierce shock package with a lr 8-2 shock and front springs are 500lbs

  3. #3

    Default

    Thanks For Responce. I Had A 175 16" Spring On The Lr And I Am Running The Right Rear Spring On Top Of The Housing. I Couple Of People Told Me To Go To A Softer Pull Bar Spring Also. Some Said 900 And Others Said 700lbs Pull Bar Spring. As Far As The Bar Angles I Have A Little Angle Up On Right And With Out Checking I Would Say Maybe 12 Degree On Left. I Will Check With My Gauge. You Run A 600lbs Pull Bar Spring? Thanks Again

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Central, IL
    Posts
    497

    Default

    I would try a progressive 600-1000 pull spring or simular & swap rear shocks around 3 left 4 right. Sounds to simple but try it 1st before anything radical. Let us know how it does.
    Central IL Bert Transmission Rebuilder
    Brian (217)201-3640

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    1,256

    Default

    I would try adding some rear percent if you haven't already. Are you at max angle on pull bar, if so are you in front of center of axle on rear end bracket? Good luck.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    7

    Default

    Try mounting your lr spring ahead of the rear end housing & your rr spring behind the housing. This should put more wedge in the car when you get back on the throttle.

  7. #7

    Default

    Thanks, I Think I Am Going To Put A Progresive Pull-bar Spring In The Pull-bar And See What Happens. I Have The Brakets On The Rear End That Move The Pull-bar In Front Of The Housing. Also Would You Prefer To Run The Pull Bar To The Left Side Or Right Side Of The Chassis Or In The Middle? Thanks Again

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    1,256

    Default

    I would try one thing at a time to see what helps, like the pull bar spring then maybe moving the pull bar if you still need to. Put the pull bar where the car needs it, to tighten off, put it to the left, etc. Good luck.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Central, IL
    Posts
    497

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ROCKET0 View Post
    Thanks, I Think I Am Going To Put A Progresive Pull-bar Spring In The Pull-bar And See What Happens. I Have The Brakets On The Rear End That Move The Pull-bar In Front Of The Housing. Also Would You Prefer To Run The Pull Bar To The Left Side Or Right Side Of The Chassis Or In The Middle? Thanks Again
    Right of center when muddy

    Center when tacky

    Left of center when slick

    Like guy above said 1 thing @ a time. If car fells better but not perfect swap rear shocks around 3 being on left...
    Central IL Bert Transmission Rebuilder
    Brian (217)201-3640

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    176

    Default

    Here is what I did.... Maybe some of this help you.. Mind you the track I ran this on was always really dry slick. I dont know how it would do on a hammer down track.

    hillbilly your front and rear springs ligher on the left. (I'm running same springs)

    put LR in front of axel. RR on top or behind

    get rid of the 90-10 if you are running one

    Go to a red buiscut pull bar. No preload when slick

    Go to a short straight bar instead of j-bar

    Up your rear % to 58 but not over if on alky

    Put a gas shock on the LR I'm using a 3 rebound 5 compression

    My LR trailing arm mount is modified to use a shorter trailing arm then my right rear (no static trail)

    I run between 80 and 130lbs of bite.

    I did all of the following and the car is awsome, I just need a good shock package, and a little more hp wouldn't hurt. The car has amazing side bite and Fwd bite not bad either.

    The car will be real erratic, and jump up on the bars quick. I haven't perfected it yet but hopefully soon. My car seems to like being driven pretty hard in the corners. Might be a handling problem or just the set up. Only ran it that way 5 times and had a blast.

    The only problem I have with the set up is the car is bad fast and feel I can win the race but........after 5 laps or so the car goes away. It tries to snap loose in the middle of the corner. even with new tires. I can usually maintain position but really got to fight to stay there. A good friend of mine has the same set up and the twin to my car and has no problems running up front, and his car is bent up...
    Last edited by Kojak_9x; 07-27-2010 at 05:44 AM.

  11. #11

    Default

    Try a 275-300lb spring on lr in front of housing with 130-150lbs of bite. Put more rake in the jbar, with a 3-link car you gotta use the jbar to pick up the lr of the chasiss. it also helps the drive off the corners. if you lower the jbar at the pinion you will lower the roll center and put more sidebite in the car. You need more angle in the bars. More angle= more forward bite, too much the car will wheel hop. Try 10 degree in rr bar and 15-20 in lr bar.

  12. #12

    Default

    forgot shocks. 3-7 on rf 5-3 on lf 3-5 on rr 8-2 on lr. Hope all this works.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    164

    Default more info

    sorry its been a while but yes i use a 600lb spring in pull bar. an last night i put 25 degrees in the left rear bar and the car was a rocket. the right rear wheel i got trailing at about 1/4 to 1/2 inch behind left rear. same springs as last time. i was told to set the panhard bar on the rearend at the center of pinion an leave it. u shouldnt adjust that anymore. adjust only on the frame now. but never go over 7 inches about mount on rearend. i got a bob pierce slick shock package on with a 8-2 nitrogen shock on left rear. 500lb springs in front of car. an never go over 1 3/4" of stagger. any more stuff u can email me at [email protected]

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    6

    Default

    My previous car was a 3 link Harris. Struggled for forward on a big dry slick 1/2 mile. Changed from straight 600 in the pull bar to 400/1000 and it was a big improvement. Ran it with no 90/10, bottom hole in frame and top hole on rear, all the way to the left. Just a suggestion.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Barrington il.
    Posts
    869

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Lethal Threat View Post
    try a softer spring in pull bar with angle maybe...and do u know the actual angles of the bars? i run about 15deg on lr and about 0-5deg on rr. the pull bar has a 600lb spring with about 15deg downhill. my panhard bar is exactly like yours. 175 spring on lr and 150 on rr. bob pierce shock package with a lr 8-2 shock and front springs are 500lbs
    This is all you need to know!

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    164

    Default

    also might help if you have a 100lb softer rf with a spring rubber in it. its supposed to let the car be more free on entry yet but then once you get to the center of corner it loads more wedge in the car so you can drive off better

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