measuring valve lift (help?)




















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  1. #1

    Default measuring valve lift (help?)

    on a v8 pushrod motor, i'd measure upward "cam lift" off the lifter or the pushrod.

    On the 2.3, the cam is doing all of its work upside down directly on follower with its stock ratio of about 1.68. meaning a .300" cam lift would cause about .504" valve lift.

    How and where are you guys using as a good place to measure the lift so I can degree a cam? Would I place the dial indicator on top of the retainer or top of the follower where it meets the valve?

    I've never used the TVL Tool or seen one in person. The tool I see is on power by ace's site and I'm trying to picture how it would be set up in my mind, before I go spending the money on it.
    Last edited by that dude; 10-07-2010 at 11:24 PM. Reason: details

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    139

    Default Here's Esslinger's Tech Sheet on Valve Lift Set-up


  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Thurston, OH
    Posts
    880

    Default

    On ANY SOHC/DOHC engine, always measure the valve-lift @ the retainer, with the valve-lash set, with a dial-indicator. And use the dial-indicator & a degree-wheel to set the cam position in the engine. This method is what the engine cylinder 'sees' when running. -Dave-

  4. #4

    Default

    Thanks for the PDF link and Dave thanks for the rest.

    When looking on Old Rob's powerbyace site, what are the short and long rails for? are they used to fasten the dial indicator's perch to the head at a certain angle and to immobilize it?

  5. #5

    Default

    I have the power by Ace TVL tool. It works great. the long and short rails are to mount the magnetic base on the dial indicator. the dial indicator goes on the retainer. If you are doing your own head set up this tool is well worth the cost. I have used it on 2.3 and 2.0 pinto engines.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Thurston, OH
    Posts
    880

    Default

    I simply manufactured (2) 1/8"-thick metal plates, one for each side of the head...... 4" wide & the same length as the longest valve-cover rails on 2.0/2.3/2.5 SOHC Ford engines. Then drilled holes to match the valve-cover bolt holes for all engines. Bolt the plates to the head, attach the magnetic base to the plate, set the dial-indicator stem parallel to the valve stem in (2) axis', with the stem tip on the retainer........ and go to work! Bouncing back & forth between plates on each side! Works for me! -Dave-

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    1,930

    Default

    Setting up with the head off you can go right off the head of the valve. Little table with a couple holes to match a couple intake and exhaust bolts and use your dial indicator right on the valve head. Real easy to get rockers in and out and adjust lash and setup as you go. I do exhaust side then intake side moving dial indicator along to each one as I go. Its all right there to just pop out the valve and adjust. You don't have to roll the head over and over ect. Only roll the head over to the exhaust side or intake side whichever. Magnetic base indicator and move indicator out inline with valve head.
    BUCKLE UP NOW, YA HEAR?

  8. #8

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by let-r-eat View Post
    Setting up with the head off you can go right off the head of the valve. Little table with a couple holes to match a couple intake and exhaust bolts and use your dial indicator right on the valve head. Real easy to get rockers in and out and adjust lash and setup as you go. I do exhaust side then intake side moving dial indicator along to each one as I go. Its all right there to just pop out the valve and adjust. You don't have to roll the head over and over ect. Only roll the head over to the exhaust side or intake side whichever. Magnetic base indicator and move indicator out inline with valve head.
    LET-R;EAT

    I'm doing this with the head on the car,

    I'm wondering, everything i'm reading is real specific to solid cams. I have hydraulic lifters in this things so how do i compensate for these things being hydraulic and not having a pre set lash like a solid 2.3 head would have based on a cam card setting cold lash.?

    Should i prime the oil pump to get the lifter to pump up, or what would you guys suggest? i'm trying to avoid putting in a soft spring or something. if i had solid this wouldn't be a problemo, but it is what it is right now.

    I can give yall the cam grind info and timing info, if that'll help with ebarring and then setting the cam as a last resort...

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Lewiston ID
    Posts
    282

    Default set-up solid lifter

    The easiest way is to set up with a solid lifter insert turned down to drop in the lifter bore, then zero lash and check your card specs. You can make or buy (E) and when done replace with the hydraulic and gap them collapsed for proper centering in the body of the HLA.
    JerryM

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