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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    1

    Default

    We are running an Amca in Australia (based on your Imca class) and are going with the Fastboys setup. We are looking for confirmation on the shocks mounting position (upper and lower) for both sides (how critical to the fastboys setup is this, as it is not mentioned in the stacked leaf instructions. We can only run the stacked leaf setup here in Oz - mono leaf is not permitted. Many thanks for your help as we are keen as to get this set-up correct - it looks like the answer to our car - looking forward to putting it into practice on the track.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    5

    Default Wissota Midwest B Mod

    Wanting to try this set up on a Wissota B Mod but don't think I can do all that is required to do so and be legal. We can't run an additional spring besides the leafs and we can't have Floating leafs. Anyone use this set up or close to this set up for a Midwest mod?? If not, what are guys with leaf springs doing for a Midwest mod? Thanks

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    5

    Default

    Anybody have any ideas?

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    5

    Default

    How does someone get ahold of Scott May for help with the FastBoy set up? Thanks

  5. #25
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    632

    Default

    If your not aloud to float the leaf it's not a fast boy. Are you aloud to run shackles ?

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    5

    Default

    Yes, they can be adjustable. What about a slider on the right rear leaf? Would that help? Look at Wissota Midwest Mod rules. Let me know what you think.

  7. #27
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    632

    Default

    Yes a slider on the RR would be good. A shackle on the LR is better then a slider

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    5

    Default

    Yea that's the plan. Was looking to find the 11 inch one like FastBoys set up.

  9. #29
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    632

    Default

    Have one made or buy 2 sets and weld together. Really don't think you will need that long of one since the axle is not floated.

  10. #30
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    3

    Default

    Do you have to run the steel springs for this to work or can you run the compossit mono leaf. I have a buzzard leaf mod and I have asked mike about this a couple of time and he tells me not to even try it that his cars are build with enough bite and forward drive to do what your setup giud say to. I want to try something I have no forward bite and I have a hard time getting this thing to just go with out blowing the tires off. I have watched these cars come down for speed weeks here in Florida and they are fast but I just can't figure out how to get it to go forward. Thanks for your time

  11. #31
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    632

    Default

    Buzzard leaf car do pretty good on tacky and when it slicks off they lack some forward bite. NO would not try a composite leaf for a fast boy set up, it would break. Give the details about your set up.

  12. #32
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    3

    Default

    its an 01 buzzard. im running a 700 right front, 650 left front, 200 chrysler composit leaf on the left rear and a 35 composit leaf on the right rear with a 175 coil over on it during the heat and and practice and depends on the track i will sometimes put a 150 on the right rear. i can only run about 90 pounds of bite ine the rear other wise it gets a bad wheel hop in the rear. left side is 54.6 rear is 57.4 and cross is 54.5. as the night goes on if the track slicks off i will put one A on the right rear but i have tried all kinds of differnt set ups and i cant get rid of the wheel hop and i have almost no forward drive coming off the corner. i have the only leaf spring car in florida and only the secound buzzard car here as well. i ve called mike and spent hours on the phone with him but havent found a fix for my problem yet. i here that his cars are very fast up north and ive seen them run down here at volusia during speed weeks and they seem to haul ass but i for some reason am having a hell of a time getting this thing to work. thanks for your help.

  13. #33
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    632

    Default

    air pressure and shocks

  14. #34
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    3

    Default

    Depending on the track I normally stay some where between 14-18 on the right side and6-8 on the left side as for shocks miles says to stay with 30-30 on the left and 40-40 bliesteen on the right side and a 90-10 on the rear in the center

  15. #35
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Posts
    1

    Default

    What about a heavier 3200LB(w/driver)Street/Super Stock Camaro clip/leaf car ,any different?

  16. #36
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    307

    Default

    I know this is an older thread but I had the same issues with our buzzard car we bought a new car from mike in 2015 and just couldn't get the car to work well we lacked forward and side bite we run IMCA we eventually converted the car to 3-link but didn't gain much doing that either.
    Last edited by dereksehi; 05-29-2017 at 10:04 PM.

  17. #37
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    265

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by dereksehi View Post
    I know this is an older thread but I had the same issues with our buzzard car we bought a new car from mike in 2015 and just couldn't get the car to work well we lacked forward and side bite we run IMCA we eventually converted the car to 3-link but didn't gain much doing that either.
    had similar experience, ran composites too and was not any help. Car would turn in nice on entry and then you would have to wait to pick up throttle or if you got mid corner btter then the exit was loose. If you added lead to help with exit then it was not as good on entry. IMHO the ;leaf setup is not the deal for A mods. Still good setup for bmods but outdated for A mods. Would think buzzard would work on on three link, but I dont know anyone that has switched from leafs without doing some rework in the back to center it all for 3 link. best of luck.

  18. #38
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    Los Angeles, California
    Posts
    685

    Default

    An oldie but a goodie. BTT
    “Yeah, well, you know, that’s just, like, your opinion, man.” — The Dude

  19. #39
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    1,395

    Default

    Racing coil springs may be used with a minimum of 5 inch diameter – front only.
    · Weight jack bolts will be allowed on front coils only.
    · Rear leaf springs must remain in stock locations. Using factory front mount. No rear coils
    · Rear sliders or shackles allowed. Shackles must be mounted in factory location.
    · Rear springs will be allowed to be aftermarket. However factory wheel base must remain.
    · If rear sliders are used they may be placed within six inches of factory spring mount.
    · Rear spring cannot mount any higher than the bottom of the frame.
    · No coil-overs allowed. No coil-over eliminators allowed.
    Racing shocks may be used. One shock per wheel. NO GAS SHOCKS ALLOWED
    · Upper A-frames may be tubular. Upper A-frames may be notched for weight jack bolts and may
    run parallel to frame. Upper A-frames must have a connected rear cross shaft.
    · Lower A-frames must be factory and may have a maximum extension of 2 inches. Extension must straight out. Lower A-frame must be mounted in factory mount.
    · Any factory spindle may be used. No after market or tubular spindles may be used. No wide 5 hubs.
    · Rear end torc-link may be used.
    · Strap for drive shaft required.
    · Drive shaft must be painted white.




    Ooookkkk, so how do I incorporate my rules with this fast boy setup? Idea's/suggestions?

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