How much can you cut a head Ford 2.3

**steveshawjr** · 12-04-2010, 01:57 PM

Rule change and we can now cut the head as much as we want how much can you go and be safe ?

**soonersublime** · 12-04-2010, 06:07 PM

varies from head to head. Some can go as far as .180 and some only .120

I would let the machinist mill it until right at the point you start seeing the threads for the intake manifold.

**Dirtman29** · 12-04-2010, 06:12 PM

Mine is .100 off. I chose to leave a little on it in case it had to be resurfaced again.You can go to about .180 off, thats roughly when you will start cutting into the threaded holes for the intake. If you go that far off, you will want to stud those holes prior to milling, otherwise your bolts for the intake wont go into the head ,they will be "flatspotted".

**car62** · 12-04-2010, 09:43 PM

a good D4 head you can go .200,most others i loctite in studs for the intake and
go .180

**steveshawjr** · 12-05-2010, 01:09 PM

Thanks for the info guys I had a d4 head but it had a crack in it

So if i go to the intake bolts on this head how much may i gain still no port or polish

specs

2.3
30 over
solid cam .454 custom grind up to 8000rpm
oval port head no port polish cut .180 ( to the intake threads)
stock size valves
efi intake
350 carb
stock crank
stock rods good bolts
decent 30.over pistons
aftermarket header
pan evac
18.5lb flywheel (rule)

what can i get outta this

**pilotracer** · 12-05-2010, 01:21 PM

people cut them that much for one thing more compression

**soonersublime** · 12-05-2010, 01:57 PM

Originally Posted by steveshawjr

Thanks for the info guys I had a d4 head but it had a crack in it

So if i go to the intake bolts on this head how much may i gain still no port or polish

specs

2.3
30 over
solid cam .454 custom grind up to 8000rpm
oval port head no port polish cut .180 ( to the intake threads)
stock size valves
efi intake
350 carb
stock crank
stock rods good bolts
decent 30.over pistons
aftermarket header
pan evac
18.5lb flywheel (rule)

what can i get outta this

I would guess around 160 HP if tuned right and the cam is good. Those stock rods will be your weakness just make sure they are shot peened and use ARP bolts. Make sure you internally balance the engine as well. If you do that then it should hold up to 8000 for a few laps. make sure all your clearances are good too.

**steveshawjr** · 12-05-2010, 02:29 PM

rods wil be the next upgrade one thing at a time you all know how that is and will probly be befor the seson starts

now this is the rule on the rods

3 pistins and 3 rods alowed to be balanced but crank must be stock and stock stroke
(dumb rule because you balance to the lightest anyways)

now by our rules it dont say anything beside flat tops only so there is nothing saying we cant run long rods and also a 2.5 crank is stock and stock storke if you get into the gray areas what do you think of this ?

i dont want to cheat jsut push the rules to the limits without going past them to gain any advatage i can . probly the best handeling car last year and only made it out 5 nights just looking to get a good jump come the new season

**soonersublime** · 12-05-2010, 02:34 PM

What I would do is just keep your eye out for 3 rod deals. There are a bunch of people who blow a motor and sell the 3 rods they have left. Then all you have to do is buy them and 1 more and you have a set. Saves you a lot of money.

**steveshawjr** · 12-05-2010, 02:52 PM

i edited the post im not sure if you saw it

**steveshawjr** · 12-06-2010, 07:26 PM

also anothe qestion on this ive herd of some guys angle mill the heads to the exaust side to get some more comp. they say theers more meat to get off on that side before going to the intake side anyone herd of this

**boportt** · 12-06-2010, 07:53 PM

every1 been angle cuttin heds so u aint herd nothin new u go 180 intake side to 300 exhast side

**steveshawjr** · 12-06-2010, 08:07 PM

thanks boportt like I siad i just herd of this and now that i know im gonna do it.

what comp ratio am i looking at here so i know what to run for fuel

**boportt** · 12-06-2010, 08:11 PM

i herd u get over 15 comp and u gotta run like nascar gas but aint no one gonna tuch u with that much powar

**crcltrakr** · 12-06-2010, 08:19 PM

I belive I'd be a little more conservative on the milling, .180/.300 seems a little stout without checking piston stickout/valve interference/casting thickness.

Angle milling also requires spot facing the head where the bolts/studs bear on the head casting to to the same angle. Don't forget to restore(die grind) the oil transfer triangle at the head/block interface.

**boportt** · 12-06-2010, 08:34 PM

go big or stay on teh porch. if ur buddy cuts 160 then u gotta cut 180 thats how u gotta race

**steveshawjr** · 12-06-2010, 08:39 PM

im talking to the car owner right now he dosent like the idea to much anyways so im looking at maybe 150 flat mill for now so if i ever have to go a bit more i can.

thanks guys for all the info im sure ill have some more qestions on some things soon

**that dude** · 12-06-2010, 08:55 PM

before i'd go decking the head more,
do your rules say anything against decking the block?

decking the block down some if you haven't done so already, wouldnt' that increase ratio as well?

**soonersublime** · 12-06-2010, 09:32 PM

Mock mount the pistons and zero the block up to w/in .005 and no more or less. Should be fairly close already. Any more than that and you will have issues. Don't overdue the milling of the heads. More compression is all good but you start getting into more issues once you get past 13:1 then you want. Let alone the fact that you don't get as much HP out of that as you might think. It's worth doing though. I like a good zero deck block the .029 cometic multi-layer head gasket. .150 off head. Then run straight 110 racing gas and get ready to rock n roll out there.