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Thread: Grt late model

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
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    11

    Default Grt late model

    Was wondering if a 2001 (#1871) chassis would still be able to compete with the new cars being built today have one with 30 nights on it and was wondering if I should just get a new frame and use what I could off this car or just run it. thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    We have a GRT chassis # 1135 that we updated the rear pick up points to 2008 specs and changed the RF to more modern specs and the car is competitive on certain tracks with the best of the new ones. We do have a real strong engine in it, which obviously helps! LOL We have qualifyed numerous times in the top 5 out of 20-25 cars....

  3. #3
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    Jan 2010
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    Default

    Thanks for the reply.

  4. #4
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    Jun 2009
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    I say yes. The GRT's didn't change much from that model to 09 in the frontend. The rear 4 link mounts went to 1/2" holes but that's an easy fix. The problem I had was dragging the frame rail on the rf. When the track was really fast and corner entry was WFO it would hit the track and sometimes unload the suspension enough to move the car up the hill. The new style car with raised rf has never hit the frame rail but I have bottomed the nose frame out many times

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Winchester,TN
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    227

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    we have 1888 and it has a raised right rail..fixing to have the front and rear updated

  6. #6
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    Jan 2009
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    I would say the chassis being that old may have lost some flex but it can still be made competitive. personally If its got alot of welds and repair i'd pass as that along with age could have flex and handling probems you might not overcome and Ive had cars that I jacked up and ran like a scalded dog till i reclipped it . if you can get in it and run it and see what it does for ya.GRT makes a good car and though you dont see them to much in the new latest and greatest list like bloomquist rockets or masters or other stuff they still will strike like a pit viper if you know what your doing and put in the time to figure them out. IF its in good shape put the money somewhere else like shocks or your motor and run it till its bent or you have money for something better

  7. #7
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    Jan 2010
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    Thanks for the input, it has afco shocks on it now what would you get for shocks? Thanks

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    186

    Default

    Based on what I can afford Ohlin's, Integra, ARS in that order.

  9. #9
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    Jul 2010
    Location
    Georgia
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    Quote Originally Posted by thumper00 View Post
    Thanks for the input, it has afco shocks on it now what would you get for shocks? Thanks
    ARS or Genesis.
    "If racing were easy, everybody would do it."

    #77 Leon "Slick" Sells

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    West Portsmouth,Ohio
    Posts
    176

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    I have chassis 1300... And Duane chamberland ran 4th in some series I cant recall the name but it was a stocked 1 but I think GRT cars dominate dry slick tracks well that's what they are built for on the older chassis like ours raise ur car and look on the bottom in the middle.... That x u see is not welded to the chassis it's just strapes around ur chassis weld up or put good tacks (so if it don't help u can undo it)on the back ones and on the left front one(driver side front) leave the right front how it is and u will find GREAT improvements promise u depending on the track Duane said it was unbelievable how much it improved it.... Also go through ur chassis and think in ur head where u will have a lot of unusefull flex and weld you some small gussets it will stiffen it up a lot he was using a 2000 chassis and beating new rockets,rayburns,shaw,and mastersbuilt

  11. #11
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    Jul 2010
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    Georgia
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    Quote Originally Posted by lyons17r View Post
    I have chassis 1300... And Duane chamberland ran 4th in some series I cant recall the name but it was a stocked 1 but I think GRT cars dominate dry slick tracks well that's what they are built for on the older chassis like ours raise ur car and look on the bottom in the middle.... That x u see is not welded to the chassis it's just strapes around ur chassis weld up or put good tacks (so if it don't help u can undo it)on the back ones and on the left front one(driver side front) leave the right front how it is and u will find GREAT improvements promise u depending on the track Duane said it was unbelievable how much it improved it.... Also go through ur chassis and think in ur head where u will have a lot of unusefull flex and weld you some small gussets it will stiffen it up a lot he was using a 2000 chassis and beating new rockets,rayburns,shaw,and mastersbuilt
    Not all GRT's came with the floating "X" brace, it was an option.... Just saying.
    "If racing were easy, everybody would do it."

    #77 Leon "Slick" Sells

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    West Portsmouth,Ohio
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    Quote Originally Posted by F22 RAPTOR View Post
    Not all GRT's came with the floating "X" brace, it was an option.... Just saying.
    O my bad I knew they was expermentin with that then but I dident kno how long well if u have a floating x brace there is u some help wit ur GRT...lol

  13. #13
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    Ours had the floating X and it was welded up years ago! LOL

  14. #14

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    We have a 98 with 08 updates. We use ARS gas shocks and love it. Car is very competitive. We are lacking in motor. But what power we have we get it all to the track with an aggressive setup.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    291

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    What lenght rf a-arms are you guys running..i bought a 01 grt and its got a 18" lower with a 7.75 upper...Would longer upper be better or like it is...also it has the floating x...ive herd some say leave it and some say weld it..whats better for a crate?

  16. #16
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    When we got our car it still had the 10" upper and 17 5/8" lower...We now have it with a 7 3/4" upper and a 19" ower....Car seems to turn better in the middle than before....

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    225

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    i have run both ways our car went ok witht the 10" upper with a 17 5/8" lower, we have run just lie dave said but the only problem we had was if we got really agressive with the hike up the rf upper was hitting the shock gas chamber that was only an issue on the chassis when it had the normal uprights my other chassis with the slider mounts never hit.dave what spindles do you use?

  18. #18
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    We have the black spindles on it...We run Penske shocks with a remote cannister and we have no trouble with the upper hitting the shock. When we had AFCO twin tubes on it, it would hit the shock body...

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