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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    904

    Default

    did you lower the shock mount on the frame or add a shock extension when you put the 16" spring in ?

    here jeff, that is a 1400# in the rf, that is getting into the corner just about at the perfect spot where it would be getting over on the rf the most


  2. #22
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    844

    Default

    I think what some are forgetting is if you use taller springs of the same rate, all you did is rasie the rideheight, (the springs won't coil bind as easy aswell but that's a different subject), Lower the ride height car will handle the same as long as your springs were not coil binding before.

    The long 20" springs are used when the rate is so soft (100lbs), that the spring would be coil bound and the ride height would be to low if it was shorter.
    Josh K.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    22

    Default

    i have tried this set up and liked it but have also found other setups that work better and keep all 4 wheels on the ground.
    simply put race springs are rated in lbs. per inch. for simple maths sake lets say you have a 300lb l/r spring and when you go into the corner 300 lbs of wheel load comes off that corner the spring will raise 1 inch.
    if you have a 100 lb spring and the same weight comes off the spring will raise 3 inches which puts bite in the car and you get quite a bit of rear steer.
    when i ran this set up i thought it was the greatest thing until last year we where required to run transponders and with a normal set up (4 wheel on the ground) my lap times where faster. the car was much easier to drive. not to mention if you go through a corner with a heavy street stock and hit a bad rut on three wheels crap breakes. if someone wanted to try this set up i would only try it if your track is normally smooth and not alot of ruts.

  4. #24

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    no bush i havent changed shock mounts which makes perfect since to why it was causing me to not get any play in my springs. so should i move mounts and go to taller springs or just stick to the 11 inch ones i have, i would like to try this 20 inch setup but have no idea where to start. i made huge gains this year in my cars handling but still am not getting the bite i need coming out.

  5. #25

    Default

    so bush would i need to go to a different shock because im already at full stroke when i put the shocks on. the shocks are in the stock location. their the butterfly bolt type

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    904

    Default

    i do not run stock mount, but i believe some of the guys were using a stock rear bilstein from a later model s-10 blazer, might be able to grab one from a bone yard cheap and try it, i think they bolt right up and have a longer extended length, the other thing you could do is fab up a new mount on the axle 2-3" higher than the stock mounting hole... and that is free

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    904

    Default

    in my personal experience 11" is not enough rear spring for the left rear on a metric, 13" makes a huge difference, and with a 20" you never have to worry about running out of down travel again.... keep the rr spring heavy enough to keep the lf on the ground and play with the set up til you get it where you want it, rf camber is important, i'm running around -4.5 degrees

    i was playing around with rr spring alot this year, i was running 150/175/200 depending on track.. 150 was too light for me on a heavy track, 200 hurt me on the slick, 175 worked decent all around but switching from the 150 to the 200 depending on track conditions was a slight gain, im going to play with some even heavier for the heat races next year, the drive with that 20" spring killed me in the heats, my examples can be a bit extreme since i run late model tires, but it should be a usable base line for you, the changes that gave me too much bite might be your best friend if you are running dot or a harder narrower race tire

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    133

    Default

    the problem with this set up its to inconsistent .. i won a couple of races with the 20in spring and you win in dominating fashion(every slick track), the car was just wicket fast, then the following week couldn't get out of its own way(track conditions were really close). i always run 13in springs and was just looking for more so i tried the 20 in and played with it a lot just not fast every night. the 13 in spring are way more consistent ever week with little changes( for me ). every setup needs something different, weight placement is a key rule in every set up. jmo

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    central pa
    Posts
    90

    Default

    I run 11" springs with late model tires...250LR 200RR. Its fast with a heavy track, but can't get anywhere on a slick track. Now I run weightjacks, and have the top plate (with the stationary threads) flush with the stock coil seat. I've seen pics with cars that have the bucket welded on top, raising the top seat of the spring a inch or two. Is that where your using a 13" spring?
    Just playin' in the clay

  10. #30

    Default

    so could you run a 13 inch 100lb spring on the lr and keep an 11 inch on the rr and get the same effect just not as much roll. and when you guys run this 20 in spring what are you setting your cross rear and left percentages at.

  11. #31
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    904

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    of everything i have played with, i can tell you this, for me the worst set up i ever had with rr heavy spring was better than the best car i ever had with lr heavy spring, i believe it was my 3rd year racing i swapped rear springs and instantly went to being a front running car, i 13" 100# spring would bind way to early, my advice would be to play with a 16" 125#-150# and see how it works for you, im gonna play with a 16" lr for heat races this year, and thats a big 10-4 on the spring buckets.... i do not even run a bucket on the lr anymore, i have an adjustable clamp on mount for a the jack bolt so i can slide it up and down, i can go from an 11" spring to a 20"+ if i need to by loosening a clamp

  12. #32

    Default

    so would you keep the 11 in spring in on the rr or switch it out to 16 also. what do you recommend the weight be for the rr if i go with this setup. i also dont have spring buckets welded in on my car. do i have to do this for the taller springs or can i just weld on different shock mounts. i have weight jacks but they are welded in the stock location.
    Last edited by sea_bee77; 01-24-2011 at 10:42 AM.

  13. #33
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    133

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bushracing67 View Post
    of everything i have played with, i can tell you this, for me the worst set up i ever had with rr heavy spring was better than the best car i ever had with lr heavy spring, i believe it was my 3rd year racing i swapped rear springs and instantly went to being a front running car, i 13" 100# spring would bind way to early, my advice would be to play with a 16" 125#-150# and see how it works for you, im gonna play with a 16" lr for heat races this year, and thats a big 10-4 on the spring buckets.... i do not even run a bucket on the lr anymore, i have an adjustable clamp on mount for a the jack bolt so i can slide it up and down, i can go from an 11" spring to a 20"+ if i need to by loosening a clamp
    What do you consider a front runner. not to be a jag off but i just looked at your stats at eriez and 4 or 5 top 10's is not a front running car imo. and i will have to ask around and see but i think most of the guys you're chasing are on regular spring setups(could be wrong but the fast ones i seen are on regular springs 71 for instant pitted next to me at an open show and changed a spring and wasn't a 20in) not picking on you bush never met you but know a couple of guys up north in erie and boy can some of them party (little guys i was hurting the next day)

  14. #34
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    3,224

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bushracing67 View Post
    of everything i have played with, i can tell you this, for me the worst set up i ever had with rr heavy spring was better than the best car i ever had with lr heavy spring, i believe it was my 3rd year racing i swapped rear springs and instantly went to being a front running car, i 13" 100# spring would bind way to early, my advice would be to play with a 16" 125#-150# and see how it works for you, im gonna play with a 16" lr for heat races this year, and thats a big 10-4 on the spring buckets.... i do not even run a bucket on the lr anymore, i have an adjustable clamp on mount for a the jack bolt so i can slide it up and down, i can go from an 11" spring to a 20"+ if i need to by loosening a clamp
    "Instantly went to being a front running car"

    I fell off my chair laughing....

  15. #35
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    904

    Default

    i run a 13" on the rr, i was getting enough roll that an 11" was binding sometimes if the track was right, you should be able to run a 16" 125 with out a spring bucket, if you lr weighs 800# with a 11" 250 the spring would measure 7.8" a 16" 125 would measure 9.6"

  16. #36
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    11

    Default 16 inchers

    do yall have a baseline setup for using 16 inch springs on a metric #3200 on 1/4 mile track. Lookin for good starting part, never ran 16's. you can"private message" if you hiding ur setup, I race in Tx.

  17. #37
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    904

    Default

    when i started with the 20" all i did was measured my ride height with driver ready to race, pulled out the old spring and put in the new one, reset my ride height to where it was before and went from there. i ended up dropping my rear split and cross down from there

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