Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 37
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    161

    Default 20 inch rear springs

    I see they only make 3 different rates in the 20" springs and they are very light. If you were going to run these what would you run as far as rate. I understand that you preload them quit a bit and that helps create lift but what other advantages are there to these springs. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    904

    Default

    it seems to work pretty good, i played with it last year, the 100# is too heavy for my car weighing is less than 2900, i could prolly use a 75#, i would think 125 would be ok if your car is in the 3600# neighborhood, as long as you 3000-3200 you want the 100#

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    On. Canada
    Posts
    430

    Default

    im also looking for the 20" springs for a friend got a good base setup to use with them just cant find the springs who makes them?


    nevermind found them
    Last edited by steveshawjr; 01-08-2011 at 06:16 PM.
    62 mini mod

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    3,224

    Default

    Unless your unloading completely a 13 or 16 inch spring there is no benefit to running a longer spring.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    904

    Default

    i agree, however i was completely unloading a 13" and i have never tried a 16" i just skipped over it and went 20"

    the springs are made by hypercoil, afco offers some lighter rate 18" springs as well

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    3,224

    Default

    Ive got a new hypercoil 20" here in the box Ill sell. I bought it for a second time to rate it in my rater and make sure I posted factual data about how it wont work any better than a 16".

    Considering I had to add a foot onto my rater I dont think many have done the actual rating or comparing etc.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    632

    Default

    Could you explain how a lighter, taller spring would be no better then a heavier, shorter one ? Thanks

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    tennessee
    Posts
    198

    Default

    congrats on your win at the ice bowl. good looking car you got. what kinda car is it?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    161

    Default

    thats kind of what I was looking for was why people was running them other than unloading the 13" springs. The way I was figuring it even if you have the same wheel weight on the scales the taller spring would be all bound up with a lighter spring rate and less pressure on the tire. Why wouldnt you run a light weight 13" spring and bind it up if that was the case. Im just a little confused about all of this.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    904

    Default

    the idea is kind of like a jack in the box, when the car is sitting at ride height the spring is bound up, however there is plenty of weight on the lr wheel, when a spring is in a bind in increases rate, increasing weight, the difference is that one hand on the rear bumper and you can easily lift the car 4-6", when you hit the corner and the weight rolls over to the right that "jack in the box" is ready to come out, the lr hikes up and the mechanical drive takes over via bar angle
    Last edited by bushracing67; 01-14-2011 at 08:47 AM.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    150

    Default

    Reasons for unloading the left rear with a 13" spring.
    Other springs wrong.
    Trying to three wheel car with
    wrong setup.
    Left rear shock topping out on extension.
    Wrong weight percentages in setup.
    Ballast placement wrong.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    904

    Default

    yeah... car would get into the the corner, roll over on rf, top lr shock, pick lr tire up off the ground, it was a great set up to 3 wheel.... but it was the wrong 3 wheels, had i moved the shock to allow the lr to stay on the ground it would have allowed enough room for my spring to fall out on corner entry... how would you suggest i fix the problem ?

  13. #13
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    150

    Default

    I would need to know the complete setup on
    the car. Total weight & percentages with driver,
    springs & shocks along with ballast placement.
    If need be list it in a PM.
    dirt2

  14. #14
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    1,289

    Default

    sounds like your rf spring is way off. lots of good handling street stocks out there and they dont pull the lr off the ground...

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    22

    Default

    sounds like your rf spring is way to soft and the lr shock is to heavy and pulling the lr off the ground. i bet driving that thing is fuuuuuuuuuuuun
    the most peacefull time is sitting in the staging lane strapped in helment on and waiting for the green light to move on track.

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    904

    Default

    that was in 2007, it was a feature winning car, front springs were rf1400/lf1200 rr250/lr225, front shocks bilstien 1043, rr bilstien sz95, lr sz953, total weight was around 3250 (had a 3200# rule) rear varied, i ran it from 50.5-52.5 rear depending on track conditions, left was 53-56%, ballast was all over the place, most just behind springs and mounted on frame rails, one 40# chunk was mounted up higher above lr spring, around 35# lr heavy, running 10" wheels wit ar late model tires, also ran same set up with ar 265 metric tires, and ar e-mod tires, had several top 5s with the ar metric 8" tires.. that track had a rotation so i came from last every f@#ing time i was there, including a 4th in a 1k to win race that had 40 cars.

    i did only have the lr coming off the ground with the late model tires, however i am sure it was unloading almost as bad on the little tires, it just wasn't bad enough to visually see the problem from the stands, now that i have been playing with the 20" spring for a couple years my scale numbers and percentages are almost the same now as they were then, my car is about 2850# total, front springs 1050lf/1200rf, 100lr/150-200rr 13" depending on track, shocks bilstien small body straight 6 rf/old a$$ afco hydraulic lf, bilstein lr 5/3, rr sz94... my thoughts are this: no matter what you are using or where you are racing, if you have a good set up, having a 16-20lr spring will never hurt you, having the extra spring pressure on the lr is never a bad thing (except sometimes in the heat races) the car reacts different on and off the throttle, it can take a little bit of adapting on the drivers part, you will never get the car to feel the same as it did on the shorter spring, however what you do gain center off is amazing, and imo worth making the change

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    3,224

    Default

    wow compressing a 1400# rf spring is something I didnt know was possible. You must have your motor about 5 inches higher than mine in the chassis.

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    904

    Default

    yeah prolly was at least 3" higher, i run small block ford, so had to pick the motor up quite a bit for oil pan clearance

  19. #19

    Default

    i had 16 inch springs in my car and it was bound up. i didnt get any movement out of my springs. the car would just bounce. any ideas. i went to 11inch springs but i feel it is hurting me with bite coming out of corners. im pretty new to this. this will be my second full year of racing. tks

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    904

    Default

    did you lower the shock mount on the frame or add a shock extension when you put the 16" spring in ?

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:25 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.0
Copyright © 2024 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.