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  1. #21

    Default

    Theres 2 different cars in the fast boys pictures as well. And between the 2 cars they r both setup a little different. Im just lost lol

  2. #22
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    632

    Default

    And neither has a fifth coil.A fifth coil is kinda like a pull bar but in a different place, farther forward. Some leaf cars use a pull bar and some don't, does your car have one now?

  3. #23

    Default

    no my car does not have a pull bar. all that is under my car are leaf springs n thats it.if that bar and spring is not a fifth couil then i can run it. all it says in my rule book is no fifth coils.

  4. #24
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    632

    Default

    You can run that set up if you want to, but it is not a fifth coil set up. It is a mono leaf set up on the RR.

  5. #25

    Default

    I have the FB setup on my SS and to be honest it's faster with the RR locked down. The setup does have it's moments where it does something spectacular like grab ahold of the race track here and there but the disadvantages outweigh the advantages IMO. You really need to wait on the car to come around before you nail it as the car hikes up on the LR when you gas it. Wherever the car is pointed. That's where it's going to go. If you're with a group of leaf cars that have their suspension dialed in you're going to get beat. There are 4 cars with this deal in the class I've run and I have yet to see anyone do anything that someone would consider "a big improvement." So yes, shift the LR spring like a FB, Hang it like a FB shackle but keep the RR locked down.

  6. #26
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    632

    Default

    Why would you keep the RR locked and redo the LR, doesn't make sence. The purpose of the Fast Boy is to get more LR bite other the RR and with the RR locked it's a regular leaf spring set up.

  7. #27

    Default

    First off if you have the FB setup it's important to have the option to lock it down when the track is hooked. It WILL push like a dump truck on a hooked up track, I don't care how hard you throw it in or how low you bring the cross. I run my car at 47 with it locked down. With the RR locked down it still hikes up on the LR, just not as much. Especially if you get some pitch into the spring. The West Coast SS or old East vs West cars are on point. The leaf cars are very fast on dry tracks without the FB. So while I like the fact it can do crazy stuff here and there, the fact it needs to be driven so hard means consistancy goes out the door. I have seen many people try the FB setup and I have yet to see someone win with it in the WCSS. Most of the faster cars fell off using it and most who have it on their cars don't unlock it. I think it is an advantage to having the FB spring on the LR as well as the longer shackle. This is just my experience. I'm going to try it a few more times at the practice session and I'll let you knwo if I change my mind.

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    511

    Default

    I say, unlock the right rear, and " let-er-eat" lol

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    WV
    Posts
    195

    Default

    Stacked leafs & nothing else just leafs work great ..........................

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    18

    Default Leaf toe?

    Sounds like a disease I know, but actually the car I have has leaf springs already and is a jig car and seems to be at least 10 years old. The rear hook up for the springs are at least 4 inches wider than the front mounts. I am thinking that would be a pretty good bind when I install my rr floater. Should they be straight, or parallel? If there is an advantage to the "toe in" for the leafs then would be interested in why. If not, then I am going to try to straighten them out, mostly just to get the bind out of the floater.

    Right now there is a split of 200 lb lr and 175 on the rr and no rr floater yet. I have it but have to clean up the rear end some first. Anyway, I was just curious.

    Thanks

    Russ

  11. #31

    Default Bind

    Towing the front of the spring in too far with a FB spring creates a bind forsure. I had problems this year getting the car to transfer to the rear. The towed springs create anti-sqwat which is good to a point. But with a stacked leaf I think you need to be careful as you can create a car that does not rotate and hovers rather than digs.

  12. #32
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    632

  13. #33
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    2

    Default

    Hi, trying to get some info on the fast boys base setup as I am new to this setup.
    What front springs are best for the base setup & do you run the front springs with the heavier spring in the LF or RF?
    Do you run the wheelbase straight up or do you run the RS longer do to the LR walking rearward under acceleration?
    What is the best mounting point for the leafs on the rearend? Do they work best mounted closer to the hubs or does it matter?
    Does it help to run the pivot bushings in the front leaf eye or is the rubber bushing better?
    Any info would be greatly appreciated, Thx

  14. #34
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    North Carolina
    Posts
    57

    Default Question

    What if you ran single mono leaf springs on the rear with coil over sliders/eliminators? mount one in front of the rearend and one behind? anyone ever tried this? ......would you have to run a panhard bar to keep the rearend under the car side to side? Kinda like a half breed 3 link without a pullbar?
    If your not racing on dirt it's your on asphalt!

  15. #35
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    632

    Default

    I had a mono leaf mod with the fast boy set up. I did what the post said to do and couldn't get any side bite, so I made my own and fixed the side bite problem. I put the RR spring on the leaf spring mount and not the axle.I also had to put another half spring on the RR in front to keep the mono leaf from bending.I recommend putting the coil spring on the axle. On the left side I put the coil/slider on the spring plate behind the axle, and 2 other front halves of a leaf spring on the left. The car had side bite and GREAT forward bite. I had no pull bar and no upper shock.

  16. #36
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    North Carolina
    Posts
    57

    Default

    Thanks Dirtrunner...
    If your not racing on dirt it's your on asphalt!

  17. #37
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Pahrump, NV.
    Posts
    4

    Default switch

    Hi everyone I have made the change from the 2 stacked leaf to the mono with a slider and a coil eliminator on the rr but I can not get this thing to scalee right it shows -100lbs bite here are our numbers keep in mind we have to be 3000 Left 1525 55.27% Rear1410 51.10% Cross 1134 41.10% L/F870 R/F479 L/R655 R/R755 Total 2759 W/O Driver and half a tank of fuel Does this sound right I'm just nervous with the -100 lbs bite

  18. #38
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    C R IOWA
    Posts
    15

    Default

    after seting my car up to the fast boys my cross was at 46% is this what you want for cross? scott said to run 100 of bite at rr

  19. #39
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    632

    Default

    That what he says to do so try it, I had a little left rear with mine and it was a little too tight.

  20. #40
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Bakersfield,Ca
    Posts
    566

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by slim10 View Post
    after seting my car up to the fast boys my cross was at 46% is this what you want for cross? scott said to run 100 of bite at rr
    Depending on the mechanical bite you have in the LR, the RR bite will vary. You are in the ball park. Use the RR bite to tune with.

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