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  1. #41
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    C R IOWA
    Posts
    15

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    thanks dave have you ever experimented with a soft spring rf with a leaf car.the setups from leaf chassis builds all put in a 850 to 900 in the rf and a 750 in the lf.2500 car

  2. #42
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    1,016

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    When we ran a RR floater and a FB LR set up a few years ago, we tried a 750 RF and a 800 LF on a big momentum 3/8 mile, El Centro, and it worked really well on that track. It dried out and we took some stagger out and shot ourselves in the foot as it got an acceleration push then. We found that you had to run stagger with that set up to help keep the acceleration "tightness" out of it. That was with Dirt Bozzes though...

  3. #43
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Bakersfield,Ca
    Posts
    566

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    I ran the FB setup only for one season, was outlawed . Like Dave said it is very fast at one point, and very undependable if you miss it. Never seen anyone hit it consistently. The most predictable nite I had was when Ron Capps the funny car driver ran my car and I detuned it for him. He was moving up to maybe second when he was taken out. I ran 900 range on the leafs.
    The metric car is in the 700-900 range. I like the weight transfer front to rear and vise versa.
    I'm still suffering from brain damage and plan on running a soft spring setup in a IMCA nova. We'll see. At 2500 lbs you could go softer. My test is drop springs until I get 4 inches of front shock travel. Front geometry goes to junk after that.
    The softer spring will travel over the rough track better. I've also found you can tune with the shocks better on the soft spring. Also depends on the driving style. Very aggressive, hard on the brakes will take more shock and spring.
    Good luck.

  4. #44
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    C R IOWA
    Posts
    15

    Default

    the guys I have helping me are bar racers.They say its not rolling onto the right front going in.Do I want this with leafs?will unbanding the right rear help the left bit more off?rules are just leafs no dampner shock or pullbar.I can use lowering blocks and slider mounts.I read mounting the shocks 3 to 4 inches from the axle will help dampen axle rap right behind left in front.I have a slider on the right and a long shackle on the left.I have a afco 166 rr and a landrum 175 lr I think Im a little light on the left so I thought about adding a half leaf to the front of the left rear any thoughts there.

  5. #45

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    D?ch thu?t Ph?m L? Gia úp cho b?n, chúc b?n bán d?t hÃ(not a nice word)ng..

  6. #46
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Bakersfield,Ca
    Posts
    566

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by slim10 View Post
    the guys I have helping me are bar racers.They say its not rolling onto the right front going in.Do I want this with leafs?will unbanding the right rear help the left bit more off?rules are just leafs no dampner shock or pullbar.I can use lowering blocks and slider mounts.I read mounting the shocks 3 to 4 inches from the axle will help dampen axle rap right behind left in front.I have a slider on the right and a long shackle on the left.I have a afco 166 rr and a landrum 175 lr I think Im a little light on the left so I thought about adding a half leaf to the front of the left rear any thoughts there.
    First question is how good is it in the entry.
    If the guys are referring to rolling into the RF like a modified; that leaf wont like that. That leaf is not a 4 bar, bird cage. The leaf wont move that much. I want my car to dive into the corner, more level. I mount the shocks at the axle. The leaf is progressive, and slow compared to any other suspension. Let the driver do the dampening.
    The half leaf will help.

  7. #47
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Bakersfield,Ca
    Posts
    566

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by kakahehe0008 View Post
    D?ch thu?t Ph?m L? Gia úp cho b?n, chúc b?n bán d?t hÃ(not a nice word)ng..
    I think I got everything translated right from this dude. He also wasn't sure if you were floating it??

  8. #48
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    1

    Default

    I have a 07 robert crump car stacked leafs both side with bird cage on rr and 3" adjustable block on lr and 2" solid block on rr..new leafs and precision performance shocks..I have no side bite what so ever and I cant get on the gas in the middle of the corner out it doesn't matter if its tacky track or slick...can someone please help!

  9. #49
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    14

    Default

    it sounds like springs to stiff or the clamps on leafs are to tight.

  10. #50

    Default Some go fast tips.

    Using this setup - front row outside.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cuWR...stX0_806s06zcg

    Suspension Cam
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=40AvvWW_lEo

    I run on the west coast in the Super Street division and I can tell you that most of the cars here are very fast. They usually win wherever they go. Here's what I have done. First, you need to be able to take apart the springs and reassemble them yourself. Most spring shops can replace the clamp with a U style which holds the leafs in place but doesn't clamp them. A bolt usually crosses through the top part to keep the springs in.

    Do the fast boy to the left spring. But put some arch into it. From the front of the spring only. The front gives you drive. I put 10 inches of arch. Yes, 10 inches. That means rotate the second spring and slide the 3rd forward and redrill hole. Now when you put the spring in, think of it like a barred up car. Mount the spring in the upper hole you can. like 10-15 degrees. On the back you'll need to lower the spring down with about a 12-15 inch shackle. Make the shackle thick. I use about a 2 inch block on the LR. On the right you can do the same thing to the spring you did to the right. It will create an amazing amount of side bite that you will control with offset in the wheel. If it''s lunging too hard, move the wheel out. Also you'll need a stiffer shock on the RR for this. Like a 5 gas. on the left a 3/5 up 3 hold 5 gas. I use bilstien. Back to the right. You want to mount this in a stock location with the spring going uphill from the rear end about 2 degrees. You need to keep an eye on the uphill degrees when you use this because when the spring flattens out the car looses drive. You will also need a slider on the RR. Mark the slider where the pin is when you start. As you run a few races you'll notice that the pin moves back. When it goes more 1/4- 1/2 inch you need to rearch your spring. Floating the RR sucks in traffic and is slow in the middle. The car has to be driven like a cowboy to race. This setup will be more drivable and produce a lot of drive. To arch your springs get a $100 press. Slide each spring in 2 inches and work it. Don't go nuts. Keep moving it in 2 inch intervals. Only do the front. Take the spring out and lay it on the ground and measure from center. Match the other springs to it when you get 9-10 inches.
    Last edited by imracin68j; 09-20-2014 at 10:44 AM.

  11. #51
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    3,119

    Default

    Your Super Streets are very much like the WISSOTA Super Stocks here in the upper midwest. Mine is a leaf car… Camaro stub with tube chassis on back. Mopar leaf springs.

    The last leaf car I built I also used Mopar leafs under a Ford frame. I set-up the front eyes lower than the centerline of the axle to try to get as much anti-squat as I could. But this was a long time ago and rear suspension tech has changed so much.

    What's your pinion angle set to? When you say arch the springs to 10" do you lay the spring upside down on a table and measure from the centerbolt to the table? I have plenty of springs on hand…Mopar, Afco and Landrum so I think I'm going to give this deal a try.

    It also looks like you are tossing the car into the corner pretty hard. Are you using a lot of rear brake bias to set it up for the corner? Looks like El Centro is a big 1/4 mile?

  12. #52

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