Its used by some to control shock travel.we pulled the end off a shock a few years back and decided to use one after that.it also helped us control foward bite on the straights.hope this helps
I'd say yes. You probably should have one. But if you do put one in have the chassis mounted part adjustable. Kinda rule of thumb- Tacky - Shorten chain. Slick - Lengthen chain. With our Shaw car for the upcoming winter series we have our chain set to 48* LUB for the slick.
I have a dumb question to add. I have also been concerned about when to lengthen or shorten the chain for hike. I would of thought that on a tacky track you would want the car to hike more to increase roll steer in which would provide better cornering. Can you please explain the why you would shorten on the tack. Thanks in advance!! my brain is a little discombobulated!!!!
The shorter chain will keep the j-bar angle lower, the lr upper bar angle will be less, and the index of the birdcage would be less. All loosening the car. But it also makes the car tighter with the steer. And lengthening does the exact opposite of all that. I'm kinda all in the process of learning all this myself so hopefully that's all correct.
I just got a wide axle clamp welded a tab for the chain and drilled a hole and tapped it to put a grease zert in it left it a lil loose and put tight axle clamps around it greased it up and worked fine. Wehr and BSB sell one but the price is ridiculous.
I'd say no. I guessing what you're asking you want the pull bar to absorb the impact of when the chain becomes taught. The best the thing to have is something to absorb it up top and it floated on the axle tube.
Exactly like this but I think this guy has it clamped to the tube. I know in IMCA you are not allowed to float it.
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