Fouling Plugs

[stock car driver]

Jets just face it Jeff is an a$$hole that thinks his schlit is better than anyone else's. I dont know how he manages to run a business if he conducts himself in person like he does on here. I have yet to find one of his posts that has anything helpful to say. As near as I can figure he is a troll.

Sorry to the original poster for posting in your thread.

Lol, thanks for being a fan!!

[dirty white boy]

Jets just face it Jeff is an a$$hole that thinks his schlit is better than anyone else's. I dont know how he manages to run a business if he conducts himself in person like he does on here. I have yet to find one of his posts that has anything helpful to say. As near as I can figure he is a troll.

Sorry to the original poster for posting in your thread.

i disagree,..seen lots of post where he is quite helpful,..but dose come with a good bit of sarcasm,..an at times a sales pitch for the parts whoever would need,..most time at a good deal!! takes all kinds to make the world go round,..race cars too!!

[Earl Parker II]

joedoozer,

I haven't read all of the posts, so I don't know if anyone has recommended this or not, but the first thing I would do is get a good pressure gauge and check the fuel pressure at idle. If you have a 3310 with stock needle & seats then they have a .110" ID. If your fuel pressure is anything over 6 psi the pressure will override the buoyancy of the float and force the needle off the seat. The engine will definitely run rich enough in the garage to cause the problem you're experiencing (of course, it will run rich on the track as well). If this is your problem then tuning will be pretty much impossible.

If the pressure is too high, I'd get a Holley 12-804 fuel pressure regulator, plumb it into the fuel line after all filters, and set the pressure on 5.5 psi- gives you a little cushion and will provide plenty of fuel for WOT operation. You'll need to have a pressure gauge in the car but get the remote sending kind- a fuel line running to the dash can be the source of way too much excitement in the event of a crash.

It looks like the Autolite AR133 crosses over to approximately a Champion V59C (I'm most familiar with the Champion numbering system but double-check me). Given your combination that strikes me as too cold of a plug for at 9.5 engine on, say, a 1/2 mile track. The AR134 (V63C) should be a lot closer to the correct heat range. However, at 9.5 you should have room for a projected nose plug which would provide much better throttle response and acceleration. A Champion V63Y (fine-wire center electrode) would probably work very well- in fact, it was specifically designed for a 9.0 - 10.0 CR. If you can find the Autolite equivalent if wouldn't hurt to give it a try- if not, just try a set of V63Ys.

[joedoozer]

joedoozer,

I haven't read all of the posts, so I don't know if anyone has recommended this or not, but the first thing I would do is get a good pressure gauge and check the fuel pressure at idle. If you have a 3310 with stock needle & seats then they have a .110" ID. If your fuel pressure is anything over 6 psi the pressure will override the buoyancy of the float and force the needle off the seat. The engine will definitely run rich enough in the garage to cause the problem you're experiencing (of course, it will run rich on the track as well). If this is your problem then tuning will be pretty much impossible.

If the pressure is too high, I'd get a Holley 12-804 fuel pressure regulator, plumb it into the fuel line after all filters, and set the pressure on 5.5 psi- gives you a little cushion and will provide plenty of fuel for WOT operation. You'll need to have a pressure gauge in the car but get the remote sending kind- a fuel line running to the dash can be the source of way too much excitement in the event of a crash.

It looks like the Autolite AR133 crosses over to approximately a Champion V59C (I'm most familiar with the Champion numbering system but double-check me). Given your combination that strikes me as too cold of a plug for at 9.5 engine on, say, a 1/2 mile track. The AR134 (V63C) should be a lot closer to the correct heat range. However, at 9.5 you should have room for a projected nose plug which would provide much better throttle response and acceleration. A Champion V63Y (fine-wire center electrode) would probably work very well- in fact, it was specifically designed for a 9.0 - 10.0 CR. If you can find the Autolite equivalent if wouldn't hurt to give it a try- if not, just try a set of V63Ys.

Thanks for the plug tips. I have the 134's in the car now, haven't had it on the track yet with those plugs. Last time out it looked a little cool. But it's tough to get a good plug reading when you idle back to the pits.

[4bangerhotrod]

im not sure who all changes there late models chassis from the chassis builders but i work around alot of top national drivers and the only ones ive ever seen change the chassis is the guys running rayburns, well they used to run them. we change are base setups alittle to suit the driver but hardly ever will we acually change something on the chassis. I know alot of dominate regional drivers and there cars are as they were from the builder. if you have a good chassis builder you shouldnt have to change them, people think that top drivers get a diff chassis than what the local guys get but ive never seen a difference in the chassis we've acually ran cars from local guys that were better than the cars we get.

[Earl Parker II]

An update, that's a 12-803 fuel pressure regulator, not a 12-804. Thanks to Dave W for catching this mistake.

[parrot69777]

im not sure who all changes there late models chassis from the chassis builders but i work around alot of top national drivers and the only ones ive ever seen change the chassis is the guys running rayburns, well they used to run them. we change are base setups alittle to suit the driver but hardly ever will we acually change something on the chassis. I know alot of dominate regional drivers and there cars are as they were from the builder. if you have a good chassis builder you shouldnt have to change them, people think that top drivers get a diff chassis than what the local guys get but ive never seen a difference in the chassis we've acually ran cars from local guys that were better than the cars we get.

Guys like Moyer, Bloomquist, Mars, etc. have been modifying Mastersbilt's, Rockets, Rayburn's, Shaw, etc. for years. You don't think they just woke up one morning and had a Victory, MB custom, Bloomquist chassis sitting on the shop floor. Several of the top guys who get cars from the major manufacturers....have all their work done in house and any joe smoe who buys a new car from these companies get all the old technology.

Quote on Wikipedia about Scott Bloomquist:

He is known for working on his own racecars as the chief chassis builder. He used to race in chassis' built by major chassis manufacturers. He would then modify the chassis with tricks that he learned during his decades of racing. He decided it would be easier to build his own chassis than to modify someone else's design. He now sells "Bloomquist Chassis'" (aka. TEAM ZERO) to select racers.