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Thread: Axle truss

  1. #1
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    Default Axle truss

    NEW FAD? Dealers just selling more parts? OR is this something thats needed? Whats up with this?

  2. #2
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    Someone should first prove that any current deflection is slowing them down. How much is the toe and camber changing? We assume it is, but who has data on this?

    If anything I think you would have more snout failure because you have stiffened the system.



    Ghopper

  3. #3
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    IF that is the one that goes across the rear of the rearend they were started YEARS ago to correct slightly bent rearends on asphalt cars, Then they would snap a snout if it was left on like reccomended. Looks like they may be trying a new market.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ghopper View Post
    Someone should first prove that any current deflection is slowing them down. How much is the toe and camber changing? We assume it is, but who has data on this?

    If anything I think you would have more snout failure because you have stiffened the system.



    Ghopper
    I agree completely. A nice, simple test would be to test the same car with an aluminum tube rear and a steel tube rear. It wouldn't take long to switch them out. The steel has 2.8X the modulus of elasticity. That should be enough to show you something. I realize it isn't perfect as you have increased unsprung weight, but it wouldn't require any special equipment.

    Have you made any deflection calculations with some WAG assumptions? I think I remember coming up with about .25" at the axle tube tip on a 36" axle being POSSIBLE.

  5. #5
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    Two points.

    One, the rear is braced at the birdcages, so you should not get that .25" deflection at the wheel, you could at the center section though. Which could make the car loose small amounts of bite, but not thinking it will be much. But the center of the wheels deflection should be small.

    Second, if deflection was a problem then I would take steel tube over a truss support. The truss is just one more thing to catch mudd on, and gain more weight. Keeping it simple with a steel tube would save money upfront and not add more items to catch dirt. Add up what you gain in mudd weight on a heavy track.

    To some up, I agree with above posters, and feel it is waste of money.

  6. #6
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    if a person thinks alum axle tube is deflecting changing to a steel tube would or should stop it to some degree?

  7. #7
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    Yes, it would some. If your having an excessive deflection problem you would see cracking and yielding(the tube staying deflected, bent tube) before too many races.

    To be short answer yes steel would cut it down a large amount if your having that problem.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by zeroracing View Post
    Two points.

    One, the rear is braced at the birdcages, so you should not get that .25" deflection at the wheel, you could at the center section though. Which could make the car loose small amounts of bite, but not thinking it will be much. But the center of the wheels deflection should be small.

    Second, if deflection was a problem then I would take steel tube over a truss support. The truss is just one more thing to catch mudd on, and gain more weight. Keeping it simple with a steel tube would save money upfront and not add more items to catch dirt. Add up what you gain in mudd weight on a heavy track.

    To some up, I agree with above posters, and feel it is waste of money.
    What I meant was the tip of the axle tube with respect to the center section.

  9. #9

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    I would say if you see bloomer or some of the other top guys doing it its probably something to look at but if they aren't i'm not going out to buy one. If thats a reason for not being competative. Then i think you might want to rethink racing cars. Waste of time and money just my opinion.
    "THANKS FOR COMING"

  10. #10
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    Moyer, Boomer, Mars, ect, get them free just to get you to buy one, thats how they help there sponcers! JMO....

  11. #11
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    Chumba, That is a true statement in some aspects alot of things are monkey see monkey do. but that being said some of the guys you listed also pay to have these products developed for them. Then they companies sell the products to other racers as well. just food for thought.

    We do have one on our new car just because I've seen enough guys who should know use them in one form or another that if there was something there I wanted to find out. I know monkey see monkey do. in the end i doubt it will slow us down.

    also another point to make is alot of guys are running more ribs on the sidebells now too so maybe they are seeing something running more nights than we see running 30 nights a year.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by sobe92 View Post
    Chumba, That is a true statement in some aspects alot of things are monkey see monkey do. but that being said some of the guys you listed also pay to have these products developed for them. Then they companies sell the products to other racers as well. just food for thought.

    We do have one on our new car just because I've seen enough guys who should know use them in one form or another that if there was something there I wanted to find out. I know monkey see monkey do. in the end i doubt it will slow us down.

    also another point to make is alot of guys are running more ribs on the sidebells now too so maybe they are seeing something running more nights than we see running 30 nights a year.
    I have bent/broken several 4 rib bells. That brings up a good point. A stiffer axle won't help much if your bell is too compliant. A 4-rib mag bell with a steel tube would just put more stress on the bell.

    If I was convinced there was an axle problem, I would simply use a steel tube and maybe a heavier one. I'd rather do that than have a bulky truss device under there picking up mud. To each his own. I have seen plenty of stuff "you just can't win without" go on the junk heap a year later.
    Last edited by MasterSbilt_Racer; 03-17-2011 at 09:22 AM.

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