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  1. #1

    Default 400 smallblock chevrolet

    Got a 400 that i had the block align bored.I installed a felpro 2909 rear main seal and the rear main still has a leak.Anyone have any tricks to stop the rear main from leaking?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    3,224

    Default

    I use a standard rear main seal on mine with a zip tie behind it... the over size seal fel pro sells leaked.

    Silicone behind the seal to help hold the zip tie.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    632

    Default

    2.8406'' to 2.8415'' is yours bigger

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,039

    Default

    Unless it's pouring, a good, correctly installed "Crack Case Evacuation System" will seal the engine up of those pesky "seeping" leaks.
    I say "correctly" 'cause, I've seen ALOT of the pipe fittings stuck way too far into the header and/or too far from the merge of the tubes on the collector.
    Gill T. Azell

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Glasgow, Kentucky
    Posts
    4,852

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by stock car driver View Post
    I use a standard rear main seal on mine with a zip tie behind it... the over size seal fel pro sells leaked.

    Silicone behind the seal to help hold the zip tie.
    How do you put the zip tie on? Where does the head of the tie end up??

  6. #6

    Default

    I would think that you would cut the end of the zip tie off. You will be using the thickness of the ziptie as a small spacer to force the seal closer to the crank.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Egoracing View Post
    How do you put the zip tie on? Where does the head of the tie end up??
    duh you cut the head off. lol.

    fel pro quit making the over sized seal for a few years because they werent working most of the time. the zip tie is what we used then and still do.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Glasgow, Kentucky
    Posts
    4,852

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by stock car driver View Post
    duh you cut the head off. lol.

    fel pro quit making the over sized seal for a few years because they werent working most of the time. the zip tie is what we used then and still do.
    The one I was thinking of is the flat style NOT the standard with the large head. I was thinking that you could clearence the seal enough to clear the flat style tie and put some silicone in behind it. Thanks for the info though!

  9. #9

    Default solution

    I had the same problem. Get a victor reinz seal # jv1603 made for line bored engines. It solved my oil leak in a 406 race engine. Good luck

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    207

    Default line bored 400

    how can you tell if the block has been line bored? Is it something you can see or need to measure?

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    3,224

    Default

    measure rear main cap seal surface

  12. #12
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    1,742

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by oldgold View Post
    how can you tell if the block has been line bored? Is it something you can see or need to measure?
    if its been line bored the lip the seal fits on in the block and on the cap will be the same diameter as the block/cap where rear main bearing rides. If it's not line bored the lip will be noticeably smaller diameter by sight and by feel than where the bearing rides. I believe this is really only a big issue with the 400's, but I could be wrong.

  13. #13

    Default

    are you shore it's the seal and not oil leaking between the cap and the block on the sides.GM always has a thin line of anorobick sealer on each side of the cap.

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