Results 1 to 18 of 18
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    140

    Default Brinn transmission

    When shifting from low to high, how high do you have the rpms? I jacked my car up just to see if it was working and it worked fine in low and at about 3000 rpms i tried to shift to high and it would just grind. This is my first year so i really don't know anything about it. Thanks.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Posts
    574

    Default

    Some will shift at lower rpms than others but they all need to be up in rpm to do so.
    I never looked at the tach but just guessing around 3,500-4,000 should shift easily.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Glasgow, Kentucky
    Posts
    4,852

    Default

    Are you letting out on the clutch and shifting or trying to pull it into high while still on the clutch?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    796

    Default

    They dont shift well jacked up because the low gear idler shaft slows down too fast when you let off the throttle.You need to be rolling so the low gear shaft keeps moving.If it shifts into high gear with the engine not running it should shift rolling, unless the clutch doesnt release.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    140

    Default

    Ya i let the clutch all the way out before i would try to shift into high. Ya it shifts into high with the engine not running so i will have to try it on the ground and see what happens. Thanks for the info.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    colchester il.
    Posts
    2,172

    Default

    you need to let out as you shift one steady movement.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    140

    Default

    Ok. I was told to let the clutch out all the way then put it into high.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Lock Haven, Pa
    Posts
    664

    Default

    actually, you do it just like you would shift a car without using the clutch. 3000 seems high. I get the car rolling about 15 mph and let out on the pedal and pull it into gear. It will not work with the wheels off the ground.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    140

    Default

    ok thank you. also how firm should the pedal be. i had it on the ground and rolling in low and i had to push the pedal almost all the way down to go.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Lock Haven, Pa
    Posts
    664

    Default

    I think you need to bleed it better. Brinns are a real pain to bleed. Best to use a vacuum pump. It should only travel an inch or 2 then get real hard. It won't be "springy" like a normal clutch. Think of it this way, on a normal clutch you have a pressure plate that applies pressure to the clutch to make you go. When you push on the clutch pedal you disengage that pressure. O.K. now with a Brinn you are doing the exact opposite, your leg becomes the pressure plate, so when the pedal gets hard, the harder you push the more pressure you are putting on the clutch to make you go.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    140

    Default

    Alright thanks for all the info. Ill let u know if I get it bled right or not.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    tulsa america
    Posts
    2,686

    Default

    if you have troubles bleeding try jacking up the RR as high as it will go. Like previously mentioned it should get SOLID. I run mine up about 1500-2000 and shift just like you do on a car or truck shifting without the clutch.

    on my car the trans looks likes it slopes to the front of the car. what i did being a one man show was buy a couple fittings and used a brake hose and ran it up and move the bleeder up zip tie to whatever you like to keep it from flopping around and getting into something.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    140

    Default

    I just went and bled it again and went through almost a whole bottle of brake fluid. It got stiffer but its not real stiff like you are talking about. I'll pump it up and it gets really stiff then ill stop pumping for a second and it gets soft again. Also when bleeding it a steady stream of fluid comes out so im pretty sure I have all the air out.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    138

    Default

    Make sure on a cluth u pump it one time then bleed not like breaks wherer u pump it a bunch of times then bleed it

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    140

    Default

    So what ur saying is push the pedal down, crack it open and let it go to the floor, then close the bleeder valve, and then let up on the pedal and do it over again until pedal is firm?

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    138

    Default

    Yes doing it that way for a few years never had to jack the car up and all that, always had it level on the lift just have another person push the pedal then i open the bleader, then shut the bleeder then release the pedal has always worked for me in just a few times good luck and let me know if this works for u......... we did have one tranny one time that had the plunger on the clutch inside messed up and it was releasing fluid in the tranny but doubt that is ur issue

  17. #17
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    tulsa america
    Posts
    2,686

    Default

    not sure if it was discussed but your M/C should be a 3/4

  18. #18
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    tulsa america
    Posts
    2,686

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 1cln_sdime View Post
    we did have one tranny one time that had the plunger on the clutch inside messed up and it was releasing fluid in the tranny but doubt that is ur issue
    can you tell me a little more about this. My fluid mysteriously disappears throughout the night. PM me if you like

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:16 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.0
Copyright © 2024 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.